SUPER TRIODE SONNECTION MK II: a set for self-assembly of a lamp amplifier on the STC scheme
This review for novice radio amateurs (fans to solder), for those who are interested in the process itself. Multimum details. You can evaluate your skill.
We might quickly, in what form it came. 
Standard package with lock, there are several more packages. 
In the kit were:
- Figured parts for assembling the org-housing. 
Details are covered with paper protection for scratch. 
- fee.
Made by high level. All holes are metallized. 
- Powering USB cable. 
- Instructions. Photocopy in poor quality. 
If anyone needs, you can look.
Four indicator in one. 
- The indicator was with a protective film.
The most important thing is the STC15W404AS microcontroller and real-time clock chip DS1302. 
Small petrolers:
Boxing for backup flooring, squeaking, resistors, condensers, two buttons, quartz, power connector, four screws with nuts, thermo- and photoresistor. 
All items on the board are not only signed, but also (conditionally) drawn.
Began with resistors and capacitors. 
Added panels and quartz. 
The case went more bulky details. 
Put boxing for backup power. It was necessary to do it a little earlier. Wasted was uncomfortable. 
Inserted chips in the panels. 
The thermistor and the photoresistor fell. 
Proter fee, checked the soldering, bit off everything strongly. It is necessary to bite up for the same thing. Otherwise there will be problems with the assembly in the case. 
Put indicators. How to solder, everything is designated on the seal. It is difficult to confuse. 
Connected.
They work! 
Okaril Orctecles and gathered everything into the case. 
And here is the size of 62 * 35mm. 
Digit size 10 * 20mm.
It's time to study their capabilities.
The clock is collected and operate, but they need a setting.
Time adjusted software.
First of all, it is necessary to reset all settings. Otherwise, they are not forced to work adequately. Without this operation, my clock was not adjusted. That temperature is not that will show (a couple of times it was -7 ° C), then the day of the week is not configured.
Click simultaneously both buttons and hold. After 5 seconds, the clock will show 11:59, then (after another 5 seconds) 12:00 and drive the alarm clock. Now you can configure.
The setting can be divided into two conventional groups. All manipulations start from the time indication mode, that is, when the clock shows the time.
The first group of settings:
1. The first two clicks on the top button activate the clock setting. First Pressing - Setting the Watch, the second click - Setting minutes. Bottom button set the desired value. 
A small addition. When setting the time, imaginary seconds (we do not see them) are reset every time with the introduction of new time parameters.
2. The following two presses (third and fourth) on the top button activate the alarm setting. Third Pressing - Setting the Watch, Fourth Pressing - Setting minutes. Bottom button set the desired value.
3. The following click on the upper button (fifth) activates the alarm itself. The luminous point in the lower right corner says that the alarm is turned on (turns on / off with the bottom button). 
4. The sixth and seventh pressing adjusts the hourly signal. The sixth pressing sets up time (clock) from which it begins. The seventh configures the time (clock) on which it ends. Bottom button set the desired value.
Those. If the value is 8:20, it means that the hourly signal will sound from 8-00 to 20-00.
5. Eighth Pressing activates the hourly signal. The luminous point in the lower right corner (in the settings) speaks from the fact that the hourly signal is turned on (enabled / disconnected by the bottom button). 
Second group of settings:
1. Press the bottom button. The clock go into temperature display mode. Here you can calibrate (adjust) the temperature over an exemplary thermometer. 
Upper button climb under the desired value.
2. The second click on the bottom button translates the month and date. The top button activate the change in the month. Bottom button set the desired value.
The following clicking on the top button is translated into the date setting. Bottom button set the desired value. 
3. The following click on the bottom button translates to the setting of the day of the week. 
A little complicated. Therefore, so as not to pursue more likely to manipulate each time after turning off the light, it is better to buy and put a backup power supply at once (CR1220).
A few words about the light sensor. Total two modes: day and night. 
The controller controls the brightness mode depending on the voltage on the 9 leg. Switching occurs at a voltage of about 4.3V-4.6V with a small hysteresis. At voltage over 4.6V, the economical illumination turns on, with a decrease in 4.3V, it turns on on the entire brightness. The hysteresis is necessary that the brightness does not switch chaotically on the boundary of the illumination during twilight lighting. It is formed by a r1 resistor divider (10kom) and a photoresistor R4.
Measured consumption current in various modes. I think this information will be of many interesting things. 
In normal mode, it consumes 26-33mA. Depends on the number of indicator segments involved (roughly speaking, 2mA per segment). In the night mode, the current consumption drops to 10-11m.
Regarding the indication mode.
In the usual mode (factory settings), the clock is shown 45 seconds time, 5 seconds temperature, 5 seconds month / number, 5 seconds day of the week.
It can be changed, connecting the conclusions 6 and 7 microcontroller with Earth (GND).
If you connect 6 leg and gnd, the clock will show 50 seconds time, 5 seconds month / number, 5 seconds day of the week. If you connect 7 leg and GND, the clock will show 55 seconds time and 5 seconds temperature. If you connect both legs (and 6 and 7 leg) to GND, the clock will show only time.
On the board everything is provided. It is enough to hang the "snop" in the right place. 
A few words about the accuracy of the course. This instance has ran away for 6 seconds for a week. I think it's not bad (it happens better, it happens worse). It all depends on quartz.
To increase the contrast of numbers and there was no empty segments, inserted a piece of tinted plastic. 
Here, in general, and that's it.
It's time to sum up.
Not bad DIY Kit for checking your skills novice radio amateurs. Moreover, it is not just a set for learning, but in the end it turned out good hours.
To properly output what I wrote should be enough.
To whom something is unclear, ask questions. I hope at least someone helped.
Good luck!
The goods are provided for writing a survey shop. The review is published in accordance with paragraph 18 of the site rules.
I plan to buy +35 Add to favourites I liked the review +45 +86Presented a new version of the STC tube stereo mixer with a difficult name "STC Super Triode Connection MK II Bausatz". Recently, Jürgen launched a crowdfunding campaign at Kickstarter.
As the Grau itself explains, when creating STC MK II, he was inspired by the STC scheme (superida inclusion), which invented in the 90s Japanese engineer Shinichi Kamijo. The feature of the STC amplifier is that, being built on the pentode, it sounds warm and gently as a triode amplifier. STC scheme is distinguished by availability feedbackwhose task is to build a spectrum of even harmonics in the right proportions. As a result, an amplifier is obtained with a large output power and the sound close to the one-step amplifier on the triode.
From the previous original modification of STC MK I, the improved MK II will be different in several parameters. The second version will receive a modified heat removal radiator, an improved high-voltage power supply on a separate board and an aluminum body from Fischer Elektronik. In addition, Jurgen Grau promises to use in new version High-quality components in audio sets.
output power STC Super Triode Sonnection is 2 x 18 W at 8 ohms. The scheme uses General Electric 5670 lamps and two EAM86.
Note, STC MK II will be delivered in a DIY dial format for self-assembly. Yurgen already offers whole line Such products, for example, a set for the assembly of a hybrid phonopone.
Today, Mr.Nixie has gathered $ 880 on Kickstarter, and you need to collect $ 5,266. Before the end of the campaign left 20 days. At KickStarter, you can get the STC MK II kit for 385 dollars.
Battery - Comable power source of various mobile devices, gadgets, robots ... without him class portable devicesPerhaps I would not exist or would not be recognizable. One of the most modern types of batteries, lithium-ion and lithium polymer can be considered. But the device worked, the battery talked, now you need to use it the main difference from simple batteries - to charge.
The article will briefly describe two common chips (more precisely one common LTC4054 and its similar replacement of STC4054) charge of one bed Li-Ion batteries.
These chips are identical, the difference is only in the manufacturer and price. Another huge plus is a small amount of strapping - only 2 passive components: the input 1 μF capacitor and the current resistor. Optionally, you can add the LED - the indicator of the status of the charge process, burns - charging goes, went out - the charge is over. Supply voltage 4.25-6.5 V, i.e. Charging from the usual 5B, not a gift based on these chips, most of the simple charges of the USB are built. Charges up to 4.2V. Maximum current 800mA.
The basis of the LTC4054 or STC4054 charging circuit board. Input capacitor with a capacity of 1MKF size 0805. Clamping resistor 0805, resistance is calculated below. And LED 0604 or 0805 with a current-limiting size resistor 0805 at 680.
The resistor (or charge current) is calculated according to the following formulas:
Because Vprog \u003d ~ 1B, we obtain the following simplified formulas
Some examples of calculation:
| I, Ma. | R, com |
| 100 | 10 |
| 212 | 4,7 |
| 500 | 2 |
| 770 | 1,3 |
Lastly a couple of pictures of the option homemade usb. Charging for lithium polymer batteries of a small helicopter.