How to make robots on the remote control. We create a robot at home. What can be brought up with this set

Many people would like to design a robot like a machine that would work autonomously. However, if we slightly expand the concept of the word “robot”, then remotely controlled objects can be considered a robot. You may think that it will be difficult to assemble a robot on a remote control, but it's actually easier than it seems. This article will tell you how to assemble a remote-controlled robot.

Steps

    Decide what you will be building. You are unlikely to be able to assemble a full-scale, bipedal humanoid that can fulfill your every whim. In addition, it will not be a robot with various claws capable of grabbing and dragging 5-kilogram objects. You'll start by building a robot that can move forward, backward, left, and right wirelessly from a remote control. However, after you master the basic aspects, you can improve your design and add various innovations, just follow the instruction: "There is no complete robot in the world." There is always something to add and improve.

    Seven times measure cut once. Before starting the actual assembly of the robot, even before ordering the necessary parts. Your first robot will look like two servos on a flat piece of plastic. This design is very simple and leaves room for improvement. The size of such a model will be approximately 15 by 20 centimeters. To create such a simple robot, you can simply sketch it with a ruler, paper and pencil in real size. For larger and more complex projects, you will need to learn the rules of scaling and automated programming.

    Choose the details you need. Although it is not yet time to order parts, you should already choose them and know where to buy. If you order online, it is better to find all the parts on one site, which will help you save on shipping. You will need frame or chassis material, 2 servo motors, battery, radio transmitter, transmitter and receiver.

    • Select the servos you need to drive the robot. One motor will move the front wheels, and the second - the rear. This way you will be able to use the simplest steering method, differential gearing, meaning that both motors rotate forward when the robot moves forward, both motors rotate backward when the robot moves backward, and to make one of the turns, one motor works, and Do not have another one. A servo motor differs from a conventional AC motor in that the former is only capable of rotating 180 degrees and transmitting information back to its position. This project will use a servo because it's easier and you don't have to buy an expensive ESC or a separate gearbox. Once you've figured out how to assemble a remote control robot, you can build another or modify what you have using AC motors instead of servos. There are 4 important things to seriously think about before buying a servo motor, specifically: speed, torque, size/weight, and if they can be modified to rotate 360 ​​degrees. Since the servos can only rotate 180 degrees, your robot will only be able to move forward a little. With the 360-degree mod, you can set the motor to rotate continuously in one direction and allow the robot to drive constantly in one direction or the other. Size and weight are very important for this project because you will most likely end up with a lot of free space anyway. Try to find something medium in size. Torque is the power of the engine. That's what the gearbox is for. If the motor does not have a gearbox and the torque is low, then your robot will most likely not budge because it does not have enough power for that. You can always buy and attach a stronger or faster engine after the build is complete. Remember, the faster the speed, the less power there will be. It is recommended to purchase the “HS-311” servo for the first robot prototype. This motor has a good balance of speed and power, is inexpensive and is the right size for this robot.
      • Since this servo can only rotate 180 degrees, you will have to reconfigure it 360 degrees, but this procedure will void the purchase warranty, but you will need to do this to allow the robot to move more freely. Instructions for this can be found online.
    • Pick up a battery. You will need something to supply power to the robot. Do not attempt to use an AC power source (i.e. a normal wall outlet). Use a non-variable source (AA batteries).
      • Choose batteries. There are 4 types of batteries that we will choose from: lithium polymer, nickel metal hydride, nickel cadmium and alkaline battery.
        • Lithium polymer batteries are the newest and incredibly light. However, they are dangerous, expensive and you will need to use a special charger. Use this type of battery if you have experience in robotics and are willing to shell out for your project.
        • Nickel-cadmium is a common rechargeable battery. This type is used in many robots. The problem is that if you recharge them before they're completely drained, they won't be able to last as long as when fully charged.
        • The Nickel-Metal Hydride battery is very similar to the Nickel-Cadmium battery in size, weight and price, but it has better performance and is recommended for beginner technicians.
        • The alkaline battery is a common type of non-rechargeable battery. These batteries are very popular, cheap and readily available. However, they run out quickly and you will constantly have to buy them. Don't use them.
      • Select battery specifications. You will need to select the correct voltage for your set of batteries. 4.8 (B) and 6.0 (B) are mainly used. Most servos will run on one of these. It is recommended to use 6.0 (B) more often (if your servos can handle it, although most of them can) because it will allow your motor to be faster and more powerful. Now you should think about the capacity of the battery, which is measured in (mAh) (milliamps per hour). The higher this figure, the better, but the more expensive ones will also be the heaviest. For a robot of this size, 1,800 (mAh) is best. If you have to choose between 1450 (mAh) and 2000 (mAh) for the same voltage and weight, then choose 2000 (mAh) as this battery is better in every way and will only be slightly more expensive. Don't forget to purchase a charger for your battery.
    • Choose a material for your robot. You will need to attach a frame to the robot to attach all the electronics. Most robots of this size are made of plastic or aluminum. For beginners, the use of a plastic board is recommended. This type of plastic is cheap and easy to use. The thickness will be about half a centimeter. What size sheet of plastic should I buy? Get a sheet large enough to give you a second chance if you fail, but buy enough to last 4 or 5 tries.
    • Select transmitter/receiver. This part will be the most expensive part of your robot. In addition, this will be the most important part, because without it, your robot will not be able to do anything. It is recommended to start with a very good transmitter/receiver, because this is the part that can serve as an obstacle to improving your robot in the future. A cheap transmitter/receiver will set the robot in motion very well, but, most likely, all the possibilities of your mechanical creation will end there. So instead of buying a cheap device now and an expensive one in the future, it is better to save money and buy an expensive and powerful transmitter/receiver today. Although there are only a few frequencies you can use, the most common are: 27 (MHz), 72 (MHz), 75 (MHz) and 2.4 (MHz). Frequency 27 (MHz) is used for airplanes and cars. Frequency 27 (MHz) is most often used in children's toy cars. This frequency is recommended for very small projects. The 72 (MHz) frequency can only be enabled for large toy airplane models, so it would be illegal to use this frequency, as you could disrupt the signal of a large model airplane that could crash on a passerby's head and injure or even kill them. The frequency of 75 (MHz) is used only for ground purposes, so feel free to use it. However, there is nothing better than 2.4 (GHz) which is subject to the least amount of interference, and we strongly recommend that you spend a little more money and choose a transmitter/receiver with this frequency. Once you have decided on the frequency, you should determine how many channels you will use. The number of channels determines how many functions your robot will support. One channel will be assigned to driving forward and backward, the second will be responsible for turning left and right. However, it is recommended to get at least three channels, because you may want to add something else to the robot's arsenal of movements. With four channels, you also get two joysticks. As we noted earlier, you should purchase one of the best transmitters/receivers so you don't have to buy another one later. In addition, you can use the same device in other robots or scientific and technical projects. We advise you to take a closer look at the 5-channel radio system "Spektrum DX5e MD2" and "AR500".
    • Choose wheels. There are three main things to consider when choosing wheels: diameter, grip, and how well they fit your engine. The diameter is the length of the wheel from one side, passing through the center point, to the other side. The larger the diameter of the wheel, the faster it will rotate and the greater the height it will be able to call in, and the less grip it will have with the ground. If you have purchased small wheels, then they are unlikely to pass through difficult terrain or accelerate to crazy speeds, but in return you will get more power from them. Traction refers to how well the wheels grip the ground with rubber or foam rubber so that the wheels do not skid on the ground. Most wheels designed to be attached to a servomotor will not pose much of a problem. It is recommended to use a wheel with a diameter of 7 or 12 centimeters with a rubber coating around them. You will need 2 wheels.

  1. Now that you have chosen the parts you need, order them online. Try to order them from as few sites as possible, which will allow you to save on shipping and receive all the parts at the same time.

    Measure and cut out the frame. Take a ruler and a cutting object, and measure the length and width of the running frame, approximately 15 (cm) by 20 (cm). And now, check how smooth your lines are. Remember, measure seven times, cut once. If you are using a plastic board, then you will be able to cut it just like its wooden namesake.

  2. Assemble the robot. At this point, you have all the necessary materials and a cut-out undercarriage.

    1. Place the servomotors on the bottom side of the plastic board near the edge. The side of the servomotor that has the shaft must face outward. Make sure you have enough room for the wheels to engage.
    2. Attach the wheels to the motors using the screws that came with the motors.
    3. Attach one piece of Velcro to the receiver and the other to the battery pack.
    4. Stick two pieces of the opposite type of Velcro on the robot and attach the receiver and battery pack to it.
    5. Here is a robot with two wheels on one side and the other side just dragging on the floor, but we won't add the third wheel just yet.
    • Try putting your old "smartphone" with a camera on top of the robot and use it as a moving recorder. You can use video chat to see where the robot is heading, giving you the ability to take it outside of your room without you being accompanied.
    • Add frills. If your transmitter/receiver has an additional channel, then you can make a claw that can close, and if you have several channels, then your claw will be able to both open and close. Use your imagination.
    • If you push to the right and the robot moves to the left, then try connecting the wires on the receiver in a different way, so for example, if you plugged the right servo into channel 2 and the left servo into channel 1, then swap them.
    • You may want to purchase an adapter that allows you to connect the battery to a charger.
    • You may prefer to use a 12V DC battery which will improve the speed and power of the robot.
    • Make sure you buy the same frequency transmitter and receiver. Also, make sure the receiver has the same or more channels as the transmitter. If the receiver has more channels than the transmitter, then only fewer channels will be usable.

    Warnings

    • Beginners should not use AC power (home outlet) for home projects. Alternating current is very dangerous.
    • Do not tune into 72 (MHz) unless you are building an airplane, as it would be against the law to use this frequency on ground based toys and you risk injuring or killing someone.
    • Do not use a 12 (V) non-AC battery with a 110-240 V AC battery, which may soon damage the engine.
    • Use of 12(V) non-AC may explode the motor if it does not support such a battery.

Decided to move smoothly to dynamic moving models. This is a project of a small home-made IR-controlled robot, assembled from simple and affordable parts. It is based on two microcontrollers. Transmission from the remote control provides PIC12F675, and the receiving part to the motor controller is implemented on PIC12F629.

The scheme of the robot on the microcontroller

Everything went smoothly with the digital part, the problem was only in the "propulsion system" - small gearboxes that are very problematic to make at home, so I had to develop the idea " vibrobugs". The micromotors are controlled through amplifying transistor switches on the BC337. They are interchangeable with any other small n-p-n transistors with a collector current of 0.5 A.

The dimensions turned out to be very small - in the photo there is a comparison of it with a coin and even near a matchbox. The robot's eyes are made of ultra-bright LEDs tucked into small electrolytic capacitors.

Discuss the article SMALL HOME-MADE ROBOT

Electronics lovers, people interested in robotics do not miss the opportunity to design a simple or complex robot on their own, enjoy the assembly process itself and the result.

There is not always time and desire to clean the house, but modern technology allows you to create cleaning robots. These include a vacuum cleaner robot that travels around the rooms for hours and collects dust.

Where to start if you want to create a robot with your own hands? Of course, the first robots should be easy to create. The robot, which will be discussed in today's article, will not take much time and does not require special skills.

Continuing the theme of creating robots with your own hands, I suggest trying to make a dancing robot from improvised means. To create a robot with your own hands, you will need simple materials that you can probably find in almost every home.

The variety of robots is not limited to the specific templates from which these robots are created. People constantly come up with original interesting ideas on how to make a robot. Some create static robot sculptures, others create dynamic robot sculptures, which will be discussed in today's article.

Anyone, even a child, can make a robot with their own hands. The robot, which will be described below, is easy to create and does not require much time. I will try to give a description of the stages of creating a robot with my own hands.

Sometimes the ideas of creating a robot come quite unexpectedly. If you think about how to make a robot move from improvised means, the thought of batteries arises. But what if everything is much simpler and more accessible? Let's try to make a DIY robot using a mobile phone as the main part. To create a vibro robot with your own hands, you will need the following materials.

Make a robot very simple Let's see what it takes to create a robot at home, in order to understand the basics of robotics.

Surely, after watching movies about robots, you often wanted to build your comrade in arms, but you didn’t know where to start. Of course, you will not be able to build a bipedal terminator, but we do not aim for this. Anyone who knows how to properly hold a soldering iron in their hands can assemble a simple robot and this does not require deep knowledge, although they will not interfere. Amateur robotics is not much different from circuit engineering, only much more interesting, because areas such as mechanics and programming are also affected here. All components are readily available and are not that expensive. So progress does not stand still, and we will use it to our advantage.

Introduction

So. What is a robot? In most cases, this is an automatic device that responds to any environmental actions. Robots can be controlled by a human or perform pre-programmed actions. Typically, the robot has a variety of sensors (distance, rotation angle, acceleration), video cameras, manipulators. The electronic part of the robot consists of a microcontroller (MC) - a microcircuit that contains a processor, a clock generator, various peripherals, RAM and permanent memory. There are a huge number of different microcontrollers in the world for different applications, and powerful robots can be assembled on their basis. For amateur buildings, AVR microcontrollers are widely used. They are by far the most accessible and on the Internet you can find many examples based on these MKs. To work with microcontrollers you need to be able to program in assembler or C and have a basic knowledge of digital and analog electronics. In our project, we will use C. Programming for MK is not much different from programming on a computer, the syntax of the language is the same, most of the functions are practically the same, and the new ones are quite easy to learn and convenient to use.

What do we need

To begin with, our robot will be able to simply go around obstacles, that is, repeat the normal behavior of most animals in nature. Everything we need to build such a robot can be found in radio engineering stores. Let's decide how our robot will move. The most successful, I think, are the tracks that are used in tanks, this is the most convenient solution, because the tracks have a greater cross-country ability than the wheels of the car and it is more convenient to control them (to turn, it is enough to rotate the tracks in different directions). Therefore, you will need any toy tank that has tracks that rotate independently of each other, you can buy one at any toy store for a reasonable price. From this tank, you only need a platform with tracks and motors with gearboxes, you can safely unscrew the rest and throw it away. We also need a microcontroller, my choice fell on the ATmega16 - it has enough ports for connecting sensors and peripherals, and in general it is quite convenient. You will also need to buy some radio components, a soldering iron, a multimeter.

Making a board with MK

In our case, the microcontroller will perform the functions of the brain, but we will not start with it, but with the power supply of the robot's brain. Proper nutrition is the key to health, so we will start with how to properly feed our robot, because beginner robot builders usually make mistakes on this. And in order for our robot to work normally, you need to use a voltage stabilizer. I prefer the L7805 chip - it is designed to output a stable voltage of 5V, which is what our microcontroller needs. But due to the fact that the voltage drop on this chip is about 2.5V, a minimum of 7.5V must be supplied to it. Together with this stabilizer, electrolytic capacitors are used to smooth out voltage ripples and a diode must be included in the circuit to protect against polarity reversal.

Now we can work on our microcontroller. The case of the MK is DIP (it’s more convenient to solder) and has forty pins. On board there is an ADC, PWM, USART and many other things that we will not use for now. Let's look at a few important nodes. The RESET output (the 9th leg of the MK) is pulled up by the resistor R1 to the "plus" of the power source - this must be done! Otherwise, your MK may unintentionally reset or, in other words, fail. It is also desirable, but not mandatory, to connect RESET through ceramic capacitor C1 to ground. In the diagram, you can also see a 1000 uF electrolyte, it saves you from voltage drops when the engines are running, which will also have a positive effect on the operation of the microcontroller. Crystal resonator X1 and capacitors C2, C3 should be placed as close as possible to the XTAL1 and XTAL2 pins.

I won’t talk about how to flash MK, since you can read about it on the Internet. We will write the program in C, I chose CodeVisionAVR as the programming environment. It's quite a handy environment and useful for beginners because it has a built-in code generation wizard.

Motor control

An equally important component in our robot is the motor driver, which makes it easier for us to control it. Never and under no circumstances should motors be connected directly to the MK! In general, powerful loads cannot be controlled directly from the microcontroller, otherwise it will burn out. Use key transistors. For our case, there is a special chip - L293D. In such simple projects, always try to use this particular chip with the “D” index, as it has built-in diodes for overload protection. This chip is very easy to manage and easy to get in radio engineering stores. It is available in two DIP and SOIC packages. We will use in a DIP package because of the ease of mounting on the board. The L293D has separate motor and logic power supplies. Therefore, we will power the microcircuit itself from the stabilizer (VSS input), and the motors directly from batteries (VS input). L293D can withstand a load of 600 mA per channel, and it has two of these channels, that is, two motors can be connected to one microcircuit. But to be on the safe side, we will combine the channels, and then we need one mic for each engine. It follows that the L293D will be able to withstand 1.2 A. To achieve this, you need to combine the legs of the micro, as shown in the diagram. The microcircuit works as follows: when a logical “0” is applied to IN1 and IN2, and a logical unit is applied to IN3 and IN4, the motor rotates in one direction, and if the signals are inverted, a logical zero is applied, then the motor will start to rotate in the opposite direction. Pins EN1 and EN2 are responsible for turning on each channel. We connect them and connect them to the "plus" power supply from the stabilizer. Since the microcircuit heats up during operation, and installing radiators is problematic on this type of case, heat removal is provided by GND legs - it is better to solder them on a wide contact area. That's all you need to know about motor drivers for the first time.

Obstacle sensors

So that our robot can navigate and not crash into everything, we will install two infrared sensors on it. The simplest sensor consists of an IR diode that emits in the infrared spectrum and a phototransistor that will receive a signal from the IR diode. The principle is this: when there is no obstacle in front of the sensor, the IR rays do not fall on the phototransistor and it does not open. If there is an obstacle in front of the sensor, then the rays from it are reflected and fall on the transistor - it opens and current begins to flow. The disadvantage of such sensors is that they can react differently to different surfaces and are not protected from interference - the sensor may accidentally work from extraneous signals from other devices. Signal modulation can protect against interference, but for now we will not bother with this. For starters, that's enough.


Robot firmware

To revive the robot, you need to write firmware for it, that is, a program that would take readings from sensors and control engines. My program is the most simple, it does not contain complex structures and will be understandable to everyone. The next two lines include header files for our microcontroller and commands for generating delays:

#include
#include

The following lines are conditional because the PORTC values ​​depend on how you connected the motor driver to your microcontroller:

PORTC.0 = 1; PORTC.1 = 0; PORTC.2 = 1; PORTC.3 = 0; A value of 0xFF means that the output will be a log. "1", and 0x00 is a log. "0". With the following construction, we check if there is an obstacle in front of the robot and on which side it is: if (!(PINB & (1<

If light from an IR diode hits the phototransistor, then a log is set on the leg of the microcontroller. "0" and the robot starts moving back to move away from the obstacle, then turns around so as not to collide with the obstacle again and then goes forward again. Since we have two sensors, we check the presence of an obstacle twice - on the right and on the left, and therefore we can find out which side the obstacle is on. The "delay_ms(1000)" command indicates that one second will elapse before the next command starts executing.

Conclusion

I have covered most of the aspects that will help you build your first robot. But the robotics doesn't end there. If you assemble this robot, then you will have a lot of opportunities to expand it. You can improve the algorithm of the robot, such as what to do if the obstacle is not on one side, but right in front of the robot. It also does not hurt to install an encoder - a simple device that will help you accurately position and know the location of your robot in space. For clarity, it is possible to install a color or monochrome display that can show useful information - battery charge level, distance to an obstacle, various debugging information. The improvement of sensors will not interfere - the installation of TSOP (these are IR receivers that perceive a signal of only a certain frequency) instead of conventional phototransistors. In addition to infrared sensors, there are ultrasonic ones, which are more expensive, and also not without drawbacks, but have recently been gaining popularity among robot builders. In order for the robot to respond to sound, it would be nice to install microphones with an amplifier. But the really interesting thing, I think, is installing the camera and programming machine vision based on it. There is a set of special OpenCV libraries with which you can program face recognition, movements on colored beacons, and a lot of other interesting things. It all depends on your imagination and skills.

List of components:

    ATmega16 in DIP-40 package>

    L7805 in TO-220 package

    L293D in DIP-16 package x2 pcs.

    resistors with a power of 0.25 W with denominations: 10 kOhm x1 pcs., 220 Ohm x4 pcs.

    ceramic capacitors: 0.1 uF, 1 uF, 22 pF

    electrolytic capacitors: 1000 uF x 16 V, 220 uF x 16V x2 pcs.

    diode 1N4001 or 1N4004

    16 MHz quartz resonator

    IR diodes: any in the amount of two pieces will do.

    phototransistors, also any, but reacting only to the wavelength of IR rays

Firmware code:

/***************************************************** **** Firmware for the robot MK type: ATmega16 Clock frequency: 16.000000 MHz If you have a different quartz frequency, then you need to specify this in the environment settings: Project -> Configure -> "C Compiler" tab ****** ****************************************************/ #include #include void main(void) ( //Set up ports for input //Through these ports we receive signals from sensors DDRB=0x00; //Turn on pull-up resistors PORTB=0xFF; //Set up ports for output //Through these ports we control DDRC motors =0xFF; //Main loop of the program. Here we read the values ​​from the sensors //and control the motors while (1) ( //Move forward PORTC.0 = 1; PORTC.1 = 0; PORTC.2 = 1; PORTC.3 = 0; if (!(PINB & (1<About my robot

At the moment my robot is almost complete.


It has a wireless camera, a distance sensor (both the camera and this sensor are installed on a rotary tower), an obstacle sensor, an encoder, a signal receiver from the remote control and an RS-232 interface for connecting to a computer. It works in two modes: autonomous and manual (receives control signals from the remote control), the camera can also be turned on / off remotely or by the robot itself to save battery power. I am writing a firmware for the protection of the apartment (image transfer to a computer, motion detection, detour of the premises).

Who would not like to have a universal assistant, ready to carry out any task: wash dishes, buy food, change a tire in a car, and even take the children to the garden, and the parents to work? The idea of ​​creating mechanized assistants has occupied engineering minds since ancient times. And Karel Capek even came up with a word for a mechanical servant - a robot that performs duties instead of a person.

Fortunately, in the current digital age, such assistants are sure to become a reality soon. In fact, intelligent mechanisms already help a person with household chores: a robot vacuum cleaner will clean up while the owners are at work, a slow cooker will help cook food, no worse than a self-collecting tablecloth, and a playful Aibo puppy will happily bring slippers or a ball. Complex robots are used in manufacturing, medicine and space. They allow you to partially, or even completely, replace human labor in difficult or dangerous conditions. At the same time, androids try to look like people outwardly, while industrial robots are usually created for economic and technological reasons, and their external decor is by no means a priority.

But it turns out that you can try to make a robot using improvised means. So, you can design an original mechanism from a telephone receiver, a computer mouse, a toothbrush, an old camera or an ubiquitous plastic bottle. By placing several sensors on the platform, such a robot can be programmed to perform simple operations: adjusting the light, giving signals, moving around the room. Of course, this is far from a multifunctional assistant from science fiction films, but such an activity develops ingenuity and creative engineering thinking, and unconditionally arouses admiration among those who consider robotics to be absolutely not handicraft.

Cyborg out of the box

One of the easiest ways to make a robot is to purchase a ready-made robotics kit with a step-by-step guide. This option is also suitable for those who are going to seriously engage in technical creativity, because one package contains all the necessary parts for mechanics: from electronic boards and specialized sensors, to a stock of bolts and stickers. Along with instructions that allow you to create a rather complex mechanism. Thanks to the many accessories, such a robot can serve as an excellent base for creativity.

Basic school knowledge in physics and skills from labor lessons are enough to assemble the first robot. A variety of sensors and motors obey control panels, and special programming environments allow you to create real cyborgs that can execute commands.

For example, the sensor of a mechanical robot can detect the presence or absence of a surface in front of the device, and the program code can indicate in which direction the wheelbase should be turned. This robot will never fall off the table! By the way, real robotic vacuum cleaners work on a similar principle. In addition to cleaning according to a given schedule and the ability to return to the base for recharging on time, this intelligent assistant can independently build cleaning trajectories. Since the floor can contain a variety of obstacles, such as chairs and wires, the robot must constantly scan the path ahead and avoid such obstacles.

In order for a self-created robot to be able to execute various commands, manufacturers provide for the possibility of programming it. Having compiled an algorithm for the behavior of the robot in various conditions, it is necessary to create a code for the interaction of sensors with the outside world. This is possible due to the presence of a microcomputer, which is the brain center of such a mechanical robot.

Mobile mechanism of own production

Even without specialized, and usually expensive, kits, it is quite possible to make a mechanical manipulator with improvised means. So, having caught fire with the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bcreating a robot, you should carefully analyze the stocks of home bins for the presence of unclaimed spare parts that can be used in this creative undertaking. Will go:

  • a motor (for example, from an old toy);
  • wheels from toy cars;
  • designer details;
  • carton boxes;
  • fountain pen refills;
  • adhesive tape of different types;
  • glue;
  • buttons, beads;
  • screws, nuts, paper clips;
  • all kinds of wires;
  • light bulbs;
  • battery (suitable for the motor voltage).

Tip: "It's a good skill when building a robot to be able to handle a soldering iron, because it will help to securely fasten the mechanism, especially electrical components."

With the help of these publicly available components, you can create a real technical miracle.

So, in order to make your own robot from materials available at home, you should:

  1. prepare the found parts for the mechanism, check their performance;
  2. draw a layout of the future robot, taking into account the available equipment;
  3. fold the body for the robot from the designer or cardboard parts;
  4. glue or solder the parts responsible for the movement of the mechanism (for example, fasten the robot motor to the wheelbase);
  5. provide power to the motor by connecting it with a conductor to the corresponding contacts of the battery;
  6. complement the thematic decor of the device.

Tip: “Beady eyes for a robot, decorative wire antenna horns, spring legs, diode bulbs will help to animate even the most boring mechanism. These elements can be attached with glue or tape.

You can make the mechanism of such a robot in a few hours, after which it remains to come up with a name for the robot and present it to admiring viewers. Surely some of them will pick up an innovative idea and be able to make their own mechanical characters.

Famous smart machines

The cute robot Wall-E wins over the viewer of the film of the same name, forcing him to empathize with his dramatic adventures, while the Terminator demonstrates the power of a soulless invincible machine. Star Wars characters, faithful droids R2D2 and C3PO, accompany them on their journeys through the galaxy far, far away, and the romantic Werther even sacrifices himself in a fight with space pirates.

Outside of cinema, there are also mechanical robots. So, the world admires the skills of the humanoid robot Asimo, who can walk up the stairs, play football, serve drinks and say hello politely. The Spirit and Curiosity rovers are equipped with autonomous chemical laboratories, which made it possible to analyze samples of Martian soils. Unmanned robotic cars can move without human intervention, even along complex city streets with high risks of unforeseen events.

Perhaps it is from home attempts to create the first intelligent mechanisms that inventions will grow that will change the technical panorama of the future and the life of mankind.