Clock from hard disk glowing. HDDClock: Clock-alarm clock from hard disk. Magnetic plank for knives

The problem of computer waste is worried about many. I propose one of the ways to give the second life with a hard disk. Not in the original, unfortunately, but in a new, no less useful quality.

Materials and tools:
- Hard disk Fujitsu, who has been lacking;
- wall clock Made in China;
- plexiglass 2 mm thick;
- Super-Glue glue (Made in China) and "Moment-Crystal" (Made in Russia);
- Files, Nadfili;
- drill;
- metal hacksaw;
- caliper;
- plexiglass cutter (made of hacker canvases);
- Tockets M2.5, M3.

Toify set for hard. Last photo Before his murder.

Disassembled Fujitsu to a screw. One side of the pancake immediately saves a wide scotch, so as not to cluster: the electronics is checked - the original appearance is very difficult to return the surface.

I stated a hole under the hourly mechanism (hereinafter referred to as FM) using a caliper. Mold holes and cut off the core chisel.

The edges are processed with files - flat and round - and brought to the size of the World Cup. The latter should not fly with a whistle to the resulting window, but it should not knock him with a hammer. Blucked 3 pieces of plex a thickness of 2 mm - the dial will lie on them, the World Cup will be lined up.

Having covered the axis of the shaft in a vice and holding the Passati himself himself, saws off top - 3 mm from the edge. Hinged the sandpaper the slice and the M2.5 tag restored the threads under the fastening screws.

Further, the thinnest work is the edge of the World Cup. Better while do without beer :). If you leave everything, as it was from the manufacturer, then the mechanism will have to be placed almost completely outside the drive, and maybe you will have to sacrifice the second hand, so that it is not shkryabal on the glass. To maximize the device from hernia on the "back" and maintain the initial functionality of the clock, completely disassembled the mechanism.

He saws the guide for the axis in the height of the trimming of the shaft, rooted the axis of the arrows themselves: a clockwise - about 2 mm, a minute - by 4 mm, a second - by 6 mm. Sawed with a kitchen knife, sharpened "sawn", with a hacksaw is rude. A couple of times collected a miracle of Chinese equipment and tried everything in place. The place of circumcision of the axes was treated with proper, so that the arrows normally sat down.

Do not believe everything on these two photos - in vice, I only snapped for pictures. In fact, I had to keep everything with my hands. Arrows too - under the size of the disk.

Blucked down from the shaft of the Point to the body of the World Cup super-glue, assembled the mechanism. The distance between the arrows was about 1 mm, if everything is done neatly, they will not interfere with each other.

Then engaged backlit. He saws a piece of 4 pins a piece of 4 pins from the connector of a broken IDE-loop, soldered the wires and glued everything with the same super glue. This design will allow you to change the mood LEDs.

Nutrition decided to make autonomous - from 2 AAA batteries. A 10 mm wide plex strip bent in the form of the letter "P", with the ends glued metal plates (from the battery compartment of the old children's toys) with screwdrived wires and glued all this to the "back" of the drive "torque - crystal". As a minus supply of the wire, the housing itself was used. In order for the batteries not falling out, the plkes arched in the form ~, drilled the hole in the case, cut the thread and secured the screw.

He set the World Cup for his place and fixed the bracket from - right - plexiglas (also drilled holes in the housing and cut the thread). Figing a plex, holding it over the sketch of the soldering iron, until he started to bend (seconds 20).

Cut the window in the lid. Beyond the lack of dreamed, the holes in the perimeter of the drill of 1 mm, the jumpers removed the boron. Despite the apparent hemorrhoids, this process took just 20 minutes. Proced the edges with nadfils. Made a hole for switch.

From the plex, adding 5 mm along the contour, drank "glass".

And glued the "moment - crystal."

Inserted the switch and brought the wire for the "back".

It has reached the dial. You can leave pure damn, it looks too good. You can screw the small screws instead of numbers.

And you can apply completely human divisions. At the scotch, which from the very beginning, the disk pasted, drew the numbers and brought to the graveyard - to engrave himself, alas, nothing.

She took off the tape, put the dial on the supporting sites (it, thus, turned out to be on the same level with the "shaft" and accurately between the heads), and secured his native clamping disk and the relative screws. Footprints from Scotch removed ... Scotch and stuck and looked.

It remains to put the arrows, put on the lid and connect the wires.

Then remove everything: (, remove the heads and restorate with a file of 2 mm axis of the head block (the glass is inside the cover). And gather again.
And so he is the result of two sleepless nights.

And this is in complete darkness.



Pan-speaker site, homemade site - there is everything you can do everything: crafts, homemade, decorations, children's crafts. Make them yourself, do it yourself and get this pleasure from this.

Do you have a broken rigid disk? Or you know where it can be found ... Are you ready to turn such "hard drive" in a unique watch?

This project requires only a little skill, ingenuity and electronics knowledge.

The article presents two versions of the clocks: simple without dial and the one that shows time.

In a simple version, you can see three arrows that appearance Remind simple "mechanics". Three arrows - hour, minute and second. Red hour, green - minute, blue - second.

In the second version, a hard disk can display time.

The plate of hard disk rotates at a speed of more than 60 times per second. If you cut through the narrow slit on the plate, this will allow the LEDs to be shocking, and at the expense of the speed rotation you can deceive the eye by creating a stable image. This phenomenon is known as "preservation of sight" (POV). There are many projects where the LEDs (moved or moves the observer itself) are used to create images. LEDs that are used in this project do not move. The image is built using the interference slots of the rotating disk.

The version that displays the numbers, more complicated ... You can easily see the time, while the animation will be displayed in the background.

Step 1: Introduction

The system works synchronously with a slot in the disk. Self-timer Uses an internal timer to refer to each turn. This is achieved using the Hall sensor, which causes a hardware interrupt with each full-turn of the disk. The microcontroller uses the turnover time and phase to plan the second internal timer. This second timer uses an interrupt when planning the synchronization of LEDs, tens of thousands of times per second to build a stable, visible image.

Less than 60 dollars you can raise your watch do it yourself. They are compact and do not produce strong noise during operation.

Step 2: List of Materials

Here is what you need:

  • Damaged hard drive hard drive form factor 6.35 cm (2.5 inches);
  • 30-40 W with a thin tip;
  • Solder;
  • Pliers;
  • 3 mm screws with hex head and screwdriver;
  • Drill;
  • Super glue;
  • Thermopystole for thermal.

Electronics:

  • 0.5 m (better buy 1 m) 5050 RGB lED ribbon;
  • AH175 Hall Sensor;
  • ATMEGA8A SMD;
  • DS1307 SMD;
  • TDA1540AT SMD;
  • Holder 3 in the battery;
  • 12VDC 1A power supply;
  • DC JACK 3 PIN (3-pin slot-plug);
  • LM2596 SMD;
  • 5 position tactile switch;
  • 2-pin SMD button;
  • Coil, condensers, resistors, LEDs, transistors, wires;
  • ... (diagram in the file).

Acrylic plates for the box and disk.

Step 3: Disassemble the hard drive

Use hexagonal dumping to open the lid.

We remove the fastening washers and get the plate. Make sure that you save screws, gaskets and plates.

Note : save your reading head.

Hard disk magnets have strong magnetic fields, so put them away from electronic equipment to avoid interference.

Let all the components besides the hard disk bracket, will be in a sealed box that protect them from dust. Later we bring them back.

Step 4: Drills holes

Using 3 mm and 5 mm Drill, drill holes in where shown in the figure. We set the LED and the sensor wire through this hole.

Step 5: Connect the BLDC engine

Engine, which was installed in Winchester (brushless direct current) It has 4 contacts: com, Mot1, Mot2, Mot3.

Sketch 4 small wires to engine contacts. They will be connected to the output of the motor.

Welded seam is very small and can easily break. Therefore, the place of soldering is hot glue.

Step 6: Hall Sensor

We will deliver the sensor to the edge of the plate, where the magnet will be attached, which will generate a signal to the microcontroller.

The AH175 Hall Sensor has 3 outputs: one for GND, one for VCC and one for signal contacts.

Use the load resistor 10 kΩ to confirm that the expected logical levels are installed on the inputs of the microcontroller.

Soldering the sensor on a small printed circuit board with a screw hole, which will fix its position.

Step 7: Testing Tape with RGB LEDs

For achievement best Effect, It is necessary to "surround" the plate with LEDs.

The project used 5050 RGB LED tape. On one meter of this tape there are 60 LEDs.

If you use standard hDD The plate should fit about 12 LEDs.

LED tape can be divided into three parts. One part will consist of 16 LEDs. This will allow you to leave the gap to accommodate the sensor where the read / write device will be located. Make sure that you cut off the ribbon on the line between copper tabs, the incision elsewhere can damage the tape and make it useless.

If on the ribbon that you are going to use no wires, you should solder feed wires. We define the location of red, blue, green and 12 in the power supply and solder four wires to copper tabs. We will heal the contact pads before soldering. After connecting the wires, remember that the places of compounds are fragile. We check the functionality of the ribbon using 12 to the power supply.

Step 8: Attach the LED Ring to the hard disk

Before installing the strip on the disk, we skip the wire through the hole. Then we smear the wires of the LEDs. Be very careful not to break the copper tracks.

A droplet of superclaud, slowly attach the strip of the LED tape on the wall of the chamber, while tightly pressing it for the connection strength. It is necessary, since the LEDs are fastened with flush, so work slowly and carefully.

Step 9: Make Background

Most hard disks They have black matte color. This is not the best color for a beautiful gift, so we will make a mirror surface.

Take a piece of thick, white paper (photo paper for inkjet printers) And circle the outline of the plate. Cut the paper circle and expand the central hole to several millimeters. We put it on the spinel and press it down to the chamber with the plates. It will act as a white reflective substrate, which will increase the brightness of the colors.

Placing the background, make sure that the spindle can rotate freely. If it can not freely rotate, expand the central hole of the background.

Step 10: Install the Hall Sensor on the Hard Drive

The oscilloscope is ideal for checking the sensor, but the voltmeter can also perfectly cope with this task. Make sure the sensor perfectly provides high signal transmission accuracy when the magnet passes by.

Install the sensor on the screw hard disk.

Step 11: Food, RTC, Buttons

Food:

Since the clock for nutrition is needed a high current (for the engine and microprocessor) used LM2596 5V 3A.

Collect simple schema Power supply on LM2596 and several other components.

To power the LEDs, we use 12 V (will burn with maximum brightness), and for a microcontroller and engine - 5 V.

Buttons:

The project used 5 position switch. More detailed information You can find about this switch in photos. This switch is quite compact, so you can easily make a printed circuit board. In it 10 contacts, including 4 contacts Common, two - center and four to control in other directions (right, left, up, down).

In this switch, press the central button to install the SET / OK, right to go to the installation, left to go to the previous level, up to zoom in time / date / month, and to reduce down.

Watch of real-timeReal Time. CLOCK. (CRV):

As a GWV, we will use the DS1307. Due to the low cost, lightness of installation and reliability, it will be able to work for several years due to the battery. As long as it feeds from the battery, the DS1307 will be fun to appear, counting time, even if the clock is disconnected from the power supply or reprogram.

Step 12: BLDC Engine Controller

TDA5140AT is designed to control, the BLDC engine. We develop a scheme in accordance with the technical documentation of the manufacturer.

When used, the engine can stop the rotation and make "EK EK EK ...". The microcontroller chip is also heated after this action. The decision is to add a filter capacitor close to the chip power outputs.

Step 13: Scheme

The scheme was designed and saved in format.pdf.









If you want to really do something amazing than you can boast before friends, collect such 3D clocks. However, this may not necessarily have a clock, because the electronics you can lay the display of almost any image. As a "mental center", the Arduino controller is used here. It is he who decides when exactly the LEDs need to be lit to appear to appear.


And everything works very simply, the LEDs that are included in a special way are fixed on the rotating stand. Screws this stand engine from the hard disk of the computer. The obtained information processes our brain, and we see the image "hanging". If it would not hum of the engine, this picture could be imagined as a hologram.

Materials and tools for homemade:
- ARDUINO UNO controller;
- 6-15 LEDs;
- Wires;
- 9V power supply;
- white ribbon (for QTI sensor);
- Qti Sensor (Buy it is possible);
- Old hard drive with a working engine;
- caliper;
- power supply for hard disk;
- Velcro;
- access to 3D printer and software For modeling.

However, for the homemade, the 3D printer is not required, everything can be made of wood or plastic, just a printer makes great easier.




Self-timer manufacturing process:

How it all arranged
For connections hard The disk will need a power supply from the computer. A piece of white ribbon is attached to the corner of the hard disk. ARDUINO controller, sensor, as well as LEDs are fixed on the rotating stand. The sensor is used by color, it is connected in parallel white tape. When the engine rotates, the sensor passes by the white ribbon and the controller gives the command to the LEDs to turn on, as a result flashes current Time.






Step one. Disassemble hard disk
First of all, you need to disassemble the hard drive, it will be necessary to unscrew several screws. Sometimes it is not so simple, because the screws are made under a special screwdriver, and they are spinning pretty much. You need to remove the top cover, in the end there should be access to the engine.






From the hard disk you need to pull out all unnecessary, including the hard drive itself. There should be only the motor shaft and the power board.






Now another nuance, the engine must be connected, many do not know how this is done, because the motor here is multiphase and without a generator will not work on the board. First to HDD you need to connect the power from the power supply, but it will not turn on. So that he earned, you need to connect the green wire with black.

Step second. Production of the base for fastening electronics
The author did the basis using a 3D printer. As a result, everything comes out quickly, accurately and beautiful. But all this can be done with other materials, here the most important thing is that the design reliably keep electronics, otherwise it will split in different directions when the motor is turned on.























The whole base consists of five elements:

Base
All electronics will be on this detail. In the database there is a hole in which the LED Tower is inserted. Also here is the battery pack and the Arduino holder, they are planted with glue. At the bottom of the center there is a connecting ring to which the connecting part is suitable.

Connecting detail
There are three holes in this detail, with the help of them there is a mounting to the hard disk concentrator. The base relies on it.

Led Tower
This element holds LEDs. All of them need 5 pieces, but if necessary, you can install 15.

Arduino holder (optional)
This item can be purchased if necessary.

Battery holder (optional)
This element can be bought

If you decide to print the items on the printer, then for these purposes the necessary STL and IPT files are attached.

Due to the fact that hard drives There are different, the detail of the author may not be suitable. In this regard, it will be necessary to change the editor to change the files by making the attachment specifically under your hard drive.

Step Three. Install LEDs
LEDs are mounted on the LED Tower. For homemake, you will need 5 LEDs, it is specifically for hours. All positive contacts of LEDs are placed in one row, as well as negative.




Step fourth. We collect the foundation
The connecting item is attached to the motor hub using screws. The LED tower is inserted into the base. The connection is fixed with glue. The base is installed on the coupling part and also sits on the glue.









Pitch fifth. ARDUINO Battery and Controller Holder
Holders are installed on the base. The author is fastened with glue. Next, when the glue dries, you can install the Arduino controller and the 9B battery into place.




Step six. Connecting LEDs to minus
All negative LED contacts need to be connected by one wire, and then this wire is connected to grounding on the Arduino controller.
Even on the base with the help of adhesive, a switch is installed.






Next you need to not forget to establish the QTI sensor on the base. It must be directed down. In parallel, the sensor should be a ribbon, it is in length approximately 1 inches.

Step seventh. How the entire electronics connects








Step eighth. Customize the clock using code
The Arduino controller lights the LEDs when the sensor passes near the white ribbon. We know that the QTI sensor hangs over a white ribbon, because it returns a certain range of values. These values \u200b\u200bwill be different for all hours POV. Therefore, your task is to find this threshold for your clock and drive it into the Arduino code.

To do this, download Sensortest.ino to your controller. Open the serial monitor by installing the QTI above the white ribbon. The serial monitor prints the range of values. The most common value should be recorded

Adjust the threshold until it becomes comfortable. Since the author has 100, it was 100, he guaranteed that his condition would be true if LS1 is less than 110 and more than 90. We need this condition to be true if the QTI sensor passes over a white ribbon.

The final stage. Check the hours
To check, you need to download HDDClockTime2.ino, turning on the power of the controller and nutrition hard disk. The clock must show the current time. If the time is incorrect, it can be changed in the code.

Today we will tell you how to make interesting desktop clocks from hard drives with your own hands.

Hello everyone! I will share with you stages and, of course, the result of the manufacture of desktop. In a simple, hard disk from. Discs to me, on the occasion, I got three pieces. But the clock did only from one, and the details of others became part of these watch.

In the photo you can see the disc practically in a disassembled state, with the lid already removed.

Brilliant M-shaped parts near the disk housing are "holders" of magnets of two other hard drives. (Magnets are very strong and dying them not just). They came in handy in other products. From the holders, I made the feet of the clock.


By the way, it was not necessary for any additional parts, all chaty screws appeared when parsing. The most difficult thing for the clock assembly is to drop the disc itself to the brilliance. It has a mirror surface and is very easy to get dirty. But it's not so easy to scratch it. The photo shows the assembly stages. The puck with holes is a pressure washer from the disk.


It was necessary to glue the M10 washer, because otherwise, when assembling with a watchmaker, they (mechanism) would not be able to pull the disk and the hard drive.

The clockwork assembly with arrows I bought separately (about 250 rubles), but you can remove from old annoying hours.

That's all gradually gathered, slept from fingerprints and put the arrows and batteries. We put on a prominent place and enjoy a beautiful and useful thing!)

Consumables:

  • Old hard drive. I was lucky to find a 5.25-inch (13 cm) model. With the same success, any other, greater or smaller.
  • An hourly mechanism from the local business store. Better, if you find with the maximum long rod. In those that I bought, the rod was 1.9 cm, which was suitable for the design just perfect.
  • I took another old IDE cable to strengthen the lower hours. You will also have to show ingenuity if you want to attach your clock to the wall.
  • Box your favorite beer to mark the result of the project. 🙂
  • Instruments:
  • Manual drill to make a hole for the rod of the driving mechanism. I needed to make a hole with a diameter of about 8 mm. You can also use the dremel or any other prickly tool for creating holes.
  • Different screwdrivers perhaps even hexagonal and star-shaped, depending on the model of your disk.
  • A hammer
  • If you decide to use the IDE cable, which I said above, you will need a knife (or good scissors) and a bit of thermoclause.

Step 1:Remove the lid from the hard disk. The model of your disk may not coincide with mine. Look under pieces of type "In the absence of a sticker, the warranty loses strength", there are screws and nuts.

Step two: Remove the screws holding the hard one. Care! Try not to hurt the surface, otherwise, because of fingerprints, it will look embarrassed.

In my drive, the lid with hard easily withdrew, and the hardest iron fell off immediately after I unscrew all the screws.

In order to free up the lower part of the hard "covers", I had to dismantle fasteners.

Magnets holding this part are very strong, so do not be surprised if you have to apply power to remove it. Then I pressed the "heads" to pCBTo remove the second "damn". Depending on the type of your disk, you may have to remove the reading heads.

Step three: We break the rotor (cover in the center of the hard disk). A pair of screwdrivers in the hands of the modder accelerate and facilitate this procedure.

Under the rotor there are coils.

Step four:i pull out all the insides of the rotor. With the help of vice and screwdriver after several attempts, I still pulled the bearings.

Step five: Now it's time to make a hole in the center of the engine assembly on the back of the housing panel. I spent a lot of time to achieve this, because there was a small steel pin, at the top of which the rotor rotated. It was the central spindle, and I needed to do the hole through it. The drill of my stale drill did not simplify work at all. As a result, I turned the drive and knocked the axis with a fist (it is possible to a screwdriver and a hammer). The axis came out immediately, after which it was not increased to increase the diameter of the opening of labor. My lesson is such: if you think you have to use a drill, look for another way. If you drill steel, you have to suffer long, especially if you have an old drill (like me). 🙂

I was so carried away when I won the hole that the wood was getting there from the workbench. Below is a photo.

The next step:collect discs and spindle again, and since they do not hold hard, put the magnets under the levers, as it was before.

Position the clock terminal in the pancake hole. After removing the bearings of the hole in the rotor turned out to be more than nut and washer from the hourly mechanism. I had to add another puck. Fortunately, this is almost not visible.

Step seven:follow the instructions specified in the clockwork to install the arrows.

Step eight: Now let's see from behind. The mechanism from hours sticks out, and therefore, you need to think of something to attach them to the wall (I'm going to hang them). If you want to put your watch on the table, well, good luck! It will greatly simplify your life.

Here I came in handy IDE cable. I took the old cable, cut off a piece (slightly more than 15 cm) so that it goes to the disk. Then the cut cable inserted into the lower part of the drive and attached it to the end with a thermoclaim to the rear panel under the watchmaker, thus making a small loop. It turns out, now the cable and the clock mechanism do not give the wheel to touch the walls.

In fact, the photo of the finished product hanging on the wall in my office is shown.

The bottom is a little visible cable, so that you understand what I meant.

Final Step- "Box": It's time to please yourself with a cold drink and admire the taste of a foam drink, as well as be happy to work and admire the new hours!

May the modding will come with you