Do-it-yourself switch connection. Wiring diagram for a light switch with one key: installation and replacement of the switch. Conventional one-button switch

Many people in their lives have time to face such a situation when, by chance, it is necessary to replace an old faulty switch with a new one, or simply to make a complete installation of a new lighting line. The two most commonly used lighting schemes are: single-gang switch wiring diagram and wiring diagram for a two-gang light switch. In today's article, we will analyze the connection diagram in detail and tell you how to connect a single-gang light switch, and also tell you how to replace a one-gang switch in case of a malfunction.

Single key switch. Clickable.

At its core, a switch is a simple device that, with the help of its contacts, controls the existing electrical networks. The simplest switch is a single-key light switch, inside it there is one contact that works to open and close the circuit. The single-key light switch is designed to control one lighting circuit from one point. That is, in fact, a single-key switch turns on and off a certain number of light bulbs or other consumers at the same time without dividing them into groups.

Safety instructions for connecting and replacing the switch.

Before starting any work related to electricity, it is strongly recommended to de-energize electrical network in which the work will be done. To do this, it is necessary to turn off the introductory circuit breaker and take measures that will prevent it from being turned on by mistake. If the circuit breaker is located, for example, in the vestibule of the entrance, you can additionally hang out a poster, “do not turn on people at work”, it is naturally unlikely that you will find such a poster at home, but I think there is an A4 sheet and a pen, you can also ask for a replacement switch, one of the relatives to stand on the landing and make sure that someone does not mistakenly turn on the circuit breaker. Another of the safest options is to disconnect the apartment cable from the disconnected circuit breaker.

Safety rules. Clickable.

Necessary materials for installation and connection of the switch.

To connect a single-key light switch, we need the following materials:

• single-key light switch;
• junction box;
• cable for connecting the switch and lighting lines (for example, VVGng 3 × 1.5 mm 2);
• connecting terminal blocks or PPE caps or PVC insulating tape, depending on the type of conductor connection.

For lighting lines of low power, for example, up to 2000 W (230 V voltage), we recommend using Wago-type connecting terminals or PPE caps of the appropriate size. In lighting networks of medium and high power more than 2000 W, we recommend using twisting with fixation by welding, soldering or connecting conductors by crimping, using one of these methods, the connections will need to be insulated with PVC insulating tape or insulating heat shrink tubing.

Ways to connect wires. Clickable.

Connection diagram of the switch in the junction box.

The connection diagram of the switch (single-gang) in the junction box is one of the most simple circuits lighting, but still remember the main rule:

The switch must break the phase conductor !!!

This requirement is due to the rules for the safe operation of electrical installations. After all, if the switch breaks the neutral conductor, then a phase will always be present on the lamp, which will create a certain risk of a person falling under the influence of electric current during elementary repairs, for example, replacing a light bulb.

Scheme of connecting a single-gang switch. Clickable.

Consider the connection diagram of the switch. A cable VVGng 3 × 1.5 mm 2 comes to the junction box from the introductory machine and the ground bus. In the junction box, all neutral conductors of blue color N are reduced to a single point, that is, the neutral conductor from the two-pole input machine is connected to the neutral conductor from the lamp. Also, all yellow-green PE ground conductors are brought to a single point, that is, the ground conductor from the ground bus is connected to the ground conductors that are connected to the lamp body. The brown phase conductor L from the introductory machine is connected to the conductor that goes to the input of the single-gang switch. The wire that comes out of the single-gang switch is connected to the phase conductor of the lamp.

It is worth noting that with the correct connection of the cartridge

The phase conductor is connected to the lower center contact, and the zero is connected to the side thread of the cartridge.

How to replace a single key switch. Video.

We also suggest that you familiarize yourself with a useful video that describes in detail the connection diagram of the light switch and shows in detail how, in real conditions, a faulty light switch (lighting) is replaced.

Many electrical appliances are equipped with switches installed on themselves, so they do not require special care: I bought a fan, and it is already on it - a switch is placed either on the case or on the wire. Such electrical appliances are often left in the network with the cord permanently plugged into the outlet (although firefighters are usually against it). If the device is used occasionally, then it may not have a switch at all, for example, the iron is the simplest. Plugged it in - and it worked, it started to warm up.

Therefore, all our electrical outlets usually do not require individual switches to be installed on the wall. That is, it either has a switch on itself, or it does not exist at all, or there is a switch, but it is automatic, and does not require our participation (refrigerator). However, it is important to know that the switches installed on the devices and the switches that are on the wall are fundamentally no different. Well, except that the switches hanging from the power cord are designed to be hand-held. But they, too, together with the rest of their numerous brethren, are one.

Varieties of switches

In electrical engineering, all opening / closing devices are called briefly and clearly: the key.

Both types and sizes are very different - from inconspicuous or microscopic noiseless electronic to huge pieces of iron filled with oil. But the principle is this: they can close the circuit, or they can open it. This is one feature. And the second is to remember your last state.

There is a button that will work, turn on a light or a doorbell, for example, and then reset it with a spring. But the switch on the buttons is still made so that fixation occurs. For example, on powerful machines, the knife switch has two buttons: start and stop. This is the switch, only the relay. By the start button, you turn it on, then the electromagnet is activated and fixes the start button in the pressed position, preventing it from releasing. By pressing the stop button, you turn it off - the electromagnet circuit opens, and the start button is released. Only this is in power engineering, it usually does not occur in everyday life. And in everyday life, a similar mechanism is implemented using mechanical latches.

In our house, household switches work mechanically. Springs are installed in them, which, by pressing the pusher, provide good contact in case of switching on, and by pressing - no contact in case of disconnection.

Household switches differ in execution (or in the wiring in which they are used):

• outdoor wiring (outdoor version) - wiring is carried out over already finished walls and other interior elements, the switch is all outside the wall;

• internal wiring: prepared and carried out before finishing, recessed into the wall. Only switches and sockets embedded in the walls and inscribed in the interior remain visible.

Typically household switches are used for lighting. These are normally open switching devices, and in terms of installation they are unified for home wiring. Functionally, you can count several more subspecies: keyboard, push-button, lever, rotary, cord, touch. And there are also switches with slow extinguishing (dimmers) and controlled by buttons or keys that are not familiar to us, but otherwise: by pulling the cord, in the case of a cord, remotely, for example, by three clapping. But we don’t really need the latter, since they can be mounted anywhere, and not necessarily on the wall, most often on the chandelier itself or the diode strip. And they can be considered not as an ordinary apartment switch, but already as a means of automation.

Wiring diagrams

The switch must open the phase going to the lighting fixture from the distribution box. Zero goes to the lighting fixture directly, bypassing the switch.

There are two options.

Switch connections

N - neutral wire
L - phase wire

As you can see, a single-gang switch, the connection scheme is different. That's right - this is when, after the switch, the phase wire returns back to the distribution box, and from it it goes to the lamp or chandelier in one twist. With a normally open contact of the switches in such cases, there will be zero voltage in both wires, and the phase will only go when the switches are connected.

This is done when wiring is standard, but the circuit may seem intricate when you do it yourself. Because the builders first lay all the electrics, and then they plaster everything and stick wallpaper. The owner can make repairs in one particular room, or make it partially, without removing all the finishing materials. Therefore, it can be problematic for him to perform exactly as such a single-gang switch connection scheme prescribes. Especially if a new lighting fixture is being installed somewhere, and the switch for it is placed directly under the lamp. Moreover, it is very easy to get confused in the wires in this case.

In order not to get confused and not to eventually connect the phase to zero in the junction box, you can use two cables that are different in the colors of the wire insulation. Or take one cable from several multi-colored wires, and apply blue and red to the lamp, and brown and green to the switch, for example, cut into the red gap in the box. Then the single-key switch circuit will actually look something like this.

In this case, it remains only to connect the incoming phase and zero in the box: zero - to the blue zero of the lamp, phase - to the brown wire going to the switch, and connect the green wire returning from it to the phase wire going to the lamp.

Both cables are pre-twisted: the one that goes to the lamp (blue and red) and the one that goes to the switch (brown and green). You can choose other colors, most importantly, I recommend that the neutral wire always and everywhere be marked only in blue. Just like in a circuit where there is grounding, always leave the standard yellow-green striped grounding.

Now everything is clear, it remains only to do it by hand.

Switch mounting

We begin to mount from the junction box. First, we find the box that controls the lighting in the area of ​​​​the room where we conduct the light. Only at first

Wiring must be carried out subject to all electrical safety rules. Since the work is carried out in a network that carries a life-threatening voltage of 220/380 volts alternating current, the most responsible actions must be carried out when turning off the power switches on the panel.

For work, use means that ensure safety.

When working with phase voltage, it is necessary to verify the presence or absence of a phase on the conductors using a voltage indicator. The search for conductive cables hidden in the walls is carried out using non-contact wiring indicators.

During chipping, drilling, fastening wires, glasses, carry out such work with extreme caution, as there may be live conductors in the wall.

We do everything in order.

1. We remove the cover from the junction box, determine the zero coming from the shield and the incoming phase.
2. We find the routes for laying the cable from the box to the switch and to the lighting fixture. We mark for scraping.
3. We mark the place for installing the switch.
4. We measure two pieces of cable of the required length.
5. We make a punch hole for the installation of the switch. We do this carefully so as not to fall on the wiring in the wall.
6. We make a punching (trenching) of ditches for the cable. We do this carefully so as not to fall on the wiring in the wall.
7. We process the ends of the wire for connection in the box, the lamp and the switch.
8. We make the laying and fastening of the cable with brackets in the strobes.
9. The socket glass is planted on alabaster and / or self-tapping screws in the hole. In this case, the end of the cable is inserted into the socket into the hole.
10. After the alabaster hardens, the wires are connected to the switch terminals. The switch to be mounted must always be open.
11. The wires of the cable going to the lamp are connected to the lamp terminal block. The neutral wire must go to the base thread terminal, the phase wire (from the switch) - to the central contact terminal.
12. The wires are connected to the wires in the distribution box. The wires are connected when the network machines are turned off.
13. Turning on the light switch and checking for the presence of a phase at the input terminal of the switch. Turn on the machine with the utmost care.

Now - turn on the switch - the chandelier works!

During the overhaul or construction of the facility, you need to think in advance about where the lighting fixtures and switches will be located. If you have already decided on their location, then it's time to think about how to put it all together and make it work correctly and properly for many years.

1. Installation and connection of electrical installation devices, that is, and, is carried out only when the mains is turned off.
2. The electrical wire is laid only in a straight line, both in horizontal and vertical directions.
3. If the building is wooden, then it is laid on top of the wall. Direct contact of the electrical wire and the wall surface is not allowed. It is wound up either in, or mounted on special insulators, which are made of non-conductive materials.
4. In stone buildings, brick, panel, monolithic houses, electrical wiring is laid under the plaster.

The electrical wire consists of current-carrying conductors and a sheath. There can be two or more lived in an electric wire. Usually use two and three-core. One of the cores serves to create a continuous network. No voltage is applied to it. It is called the empty or zero phase. The remaining cores are called working phases or cores. She or they supply electricity to electrical appliances.

Tools and materials for installation

What materials and tools do we need to install and connect the switch to the light bulb?

• Switch.
• Electric wire. In our case, it does not matter which electrical wire will be used, copper or aluminum. But, if the entire electrical network of an apartment or house is made of copper wire, then you need to install copper. If aluminum, then aluminum.
• distribution boxes. They are used for laying electrical connections. Don't be afraid to bet. When using boxes, the probability of breaking the integrity of the connections is reduced, which means that the risk of a short circuit is reduced.
• . We will need it to determine in the electrical wire, to check the presence of current in the network.
• Wire cutters. They will be needed to cut the wire.
• Pliers. With their help, stronger twists of wires are made.
• Insulating tape and gray. Wire connections, bare ends must be insulated. They are wrapped with electrical tape, then put on a PPE connection. It is a cap and ensures a secure connection.
• fastening element. When working on wooden surfaces, you will need clamps. With their help, the corrugation is attached to the wall. When installing the wire on a stone surface, you will need clips, clamps, self-tapping screws, dowels. But the most reliable fastener is still considered to be a strip cut from an aluminum can with a nail in the middle.
• Socket box. It is a device made of steel or polymeric materials, shaped like a glass. A socket box is designed for installing a switch or socket.
• Perforator. It will be needed in order to open the plaster, in other words, to pierce, to make holes. If the switch is placed in a new place or for the first time, then you will also need a cutter the size of the bottom of the socket. With its help, a hole is made in the wall, into which a socket is then placed.

We determine the type of switch we need

The design of the switch is a housing in which a block with current-receiving elements and an interrupting device are installed. The most commonly used key interrupt device. There can be one or more keys in the switch. Basically, one and two key switches are used.

There are several types of switches:

• Key switches
• . They are exactly the same as the keyboards.
• Touch
• Pulse
• and impulse switches

There is no need to describe each device separately. Since their installation does not have fundamental differences from the installation of a single-gang switch. We need it to connect the light bulb. Let's go back to its design.

The block of such a switch is equipped with two contacts and one interrupt key. The design may include a mechanism for fixing the block in the socket. Usually it consists of two metal petals, the position of which is adjusted with screws. In the free position, the petals are lowered, in the open position they rest against the walls of the box.

Explanation of wiring diagram for easier understanding

Let's describe the connection diagram of a switch that works with one lighting device, in our case with a light bulb. I must say that the switch is always placed on the working core, phase. That is, it interrupts the supply of electricity to the light bulb. Leaving it under constant load is dangerous.

The wires of the general apartment electrical network, the wires coming from the switch and the wires that come from the bulb's electric cartridge are brought into the junction box. One of the wires of the cartridge is connected to the neutral conductor of the general electrical network, the second to the residential wire coming from the switch. The second core of the switch wire is connected to the working phase of the general electrical network. Thus, the working conductor of the cartridge is connected to the working residential electrical network through a switch. When the switch is turned on, the load is applied to the light bulb, when it is turned off, it is interrupted.

Marking the places of installation of electrical appliances

Before the beginning installation work you need to mark how the switch will be located, the electrical wire on the wall, ceiling, where the light bulb will be installed. Perhaps it will not stand on the ceiling, but on one of the walls. The switch is placed near the door leading to the room, at a distance of about 30 cm. If the room is a walk-through, then near the doorway leading to the adjacent room, at a distance of about 25 - 30 cm. The switch can be installed at a height from the floor, starting from 30 cm and up to 1.6m.

If we mount an additional light bulb on the wall, then the switch is placed at the level of the sockets. After we have marked the location of the switch, we draw a straight line up to the ceiling. In this place you will need to put a junction box. Mark the center of the room on the ceiling. A block will be installed here, on which a wire with an electric cartridge is installed. From it we draw a straight line to the wall with a switch.

We lead another line along the wall to the place where the junction box will stand. By the way, at the junction of the wires running along the wall and along the ceiling, you also need to install a junction box. Then we measure the length of the wire, cut the segments and proceed to installation.

We carry out the installation of the switch with our own hands

Installation begins with the installation of the switch. If we mount it on a wooden surface, then first a plate is placed, made of a material that does not conduct electricity, for example, plastic or well-dried wood. Then the junction box is installed. Then we connect the wire to the switch, we wind it into the corrugation and fasten it to the wall.

On the ceiling we install a special block that has two current-receiving contacts. It is also installed on the plate. In the future, a wire with a light bulb will be connected to this block. A piece of wire intended for the ceiling is wound into a corrugation and led to a wall with a switch. On the wall we start it in a separate junction box. We take another piece of wire, enclose it in a corrugation and lead to the main junction box. Naturally, we fasten all segments with the wall and ceiling.

Then we connect a wire with an electric cartridge and a light bulb to the block on the ceiling. Typically, these pads are equipped with a screw connection. The end of the bare wire can be inserted into the terminal and then pressed with a bolt. It can also be connected directly with a bolt, that is, the ends of the wires are wound around the bolt and pressed against it. Next, twist the ends of the wires in the first junction box. For a tighter twist, you can use pliers.

We carefully isolate the twists and cover with sizami. Then we turn off the power supply and open the ends of the common electrical network. We turn on the electricity again. We find the zero phase using an electric indicator screwdriver common network. When touching the working core, the screwdriver indicator lights up. When touching zero - no. We mark the zero phase and turn off the electricity.

Connection of wires in the junction box

We put all the ends into the junction box, that is, the wires of the general network, the wires of the switch and the wires of the light bulb. . One end of the wire from the light bulb is connected to the neutral core of the common network, the second - to one of the ends of the switch wire. The remaining free end of the switch wire is connected to the working core of the general network.

We twist all connections tightly with pliers and isolate with electrical tape. On top of the connections we put on the siz. We connect electricity. Turn on, check. If the light comes on, close the boxes and use. If not, check connections. O possible malfunctions we'll talk a little lower.

Features of installing wires under plaster

Installation of a switch in a stone building has some differences from installation in a wooden house. Electrical wiring in such buildings is laid under the plaster. If the switch is mounted on a plastered wall, then it is ditched, that is, with the help of a perforator, a channel is laid in the plaster for laying the wire and installing the socket box. The plaster is removed to the stone wall. All other steps for installation on a plastered wall are exactly the same as on a non-plastered wall.

Laying electricians in concrete walls without plaster

If the installation is carried out on a bare, non-plastered wall, then first, using a puncher equipped with a cutter, a recess is made for installing the socket box. It is fastened in this recess with dowels or alabaster. The wire is attached to the wall using clamps, clips, or using the homemade fasteners described above. Fasteners do not need to be sorry. You need to put it at a distance of no more than 20 cm from each other. Junction boxes are also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws and dowels.

Gutters in slabs - electrician's assistants

Floor slabs in stone houses have gutters inside. The electrical wire to the light bulb placed on the ceiling goes along one of these gutters. To do this, two holes are punched using a perforator. One is at the point where the wire enters the slab. The other is in the place where the block for mounting the cartridge and light bulb will be located. The block, to which the electric cartridge with the bulb will be attached, is placed on the plate.

If the plate is wooden, then it is simply glued to the surface of the ceiling. If it is made of other materials, then it is either glued or fastened to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. The case is removed from the switch, connected to the wire and fixed in the socket. To do this, there is a mounting mechanism on the switch block. The bolts in the mechanism are tightened so that the switch stands firmly in the socket and does not swing.

Then twist all connections, isolate them. Then they mark the zero core of the common network and turn off the electricity. Next, connect the switch and the light bulb to the common network according to the above scheme. Zero core working network connects to the zero phase of the light bulb. The ends of the wire of the switch are connected to a working residential common network and from a working residential light bulb. Carefully isolate and turn on electricity. Turn on the switch and check. Lights up, you can use it. No, we're checking connections. After the installation is completed, the surfaces are plastered.

Before starting plastering work, the switch is removed. Put it finally after finishing the surface of the wall. At the time of its implementation, the bare ends are isolated. And the socket is closed with something.

Installing a light bulb on the wall

The installation of a switch for a light bulb mounted on a wall does not fundamentally differ from the installation described above. If there is no installed junction box and wire on the wall, then you will have to pull it from the common junction box. And the wiring diagram is the same. We put the box, we start the wires from the common network, the switch and the wall device into it, we connect the light bulb to the zero residential common network, the switch from the working residential light bulb and the common network. After the installation is completed, the corrugation in which the wire is laid should be closed with a decorative box.

Possible malfunctions

If after installation the light does not light up, then it is possible that the wires are badly twisted. You need to check the connections. For this, there is no need to check each. You need to start with the wires included in the switch. We take an indicator screwdriver and check whether electricity is supplied to the switch. Touch the screwdriver to the ends of the wire entering the switch in turn. If the indicator is off, then there is a problem with the connection to the public network.

Once again, we twist the wires connecting the working phases of the switch and the general network, having previously turned off the electricity. Let's check again. If current is supplied, and the light is still off, then the fault is either in the switch or in the rest electrical circuit.

If the switch is working, then the indicator should light up when you touch both of its contacts. If the indicator lights up only on one of the contacts, then the switch is faulty. It is better to replace it immediately. A defective item will not work for a long time. If the switch is OK, check each connection until we find the fault.

Detailed explanation in video format

Everyone in the house has more than four switches. They work properly, but often break down at the most inopportune moment, or you just decide to make repairs at home and replace them with new models, and then you have to change them. If you decide to do everything yourself with your own hands, then in this article you will find detailed wiring diagrams for single-gang and two-gang switches, various recommendations and tips on this issue.

Connection diagram of a single-gang switch

First, let's look at the connection diagram of a single-gang switch, as it is simpler and more common. Remember that in order to assemble the lamp connection diagram, in addition to the switch and wires, we also need a junction box in which the wires will be connected. You can connect them different ways, but here we will consider simple twists. The photo below shows all the necessary elements: a junction box, a lamp holder and a switch (already disassembled) ...

Now we lay all the necessary wires:

1. Wire from the shield to the junction box.
2. Wire from junction box to switch.
3. Wire from the junction box to the lamp holder.

Next, we cut all the ends of the wires and clean the cores. In the junction box, it is necessary to strip the wires by 3-4 cm to create a reliable twist, and in the cartridge and switch, you need to strip them by 5-8 mm to connect to the contacts.

We connect the wires to the switch and the cartridge (terminal block) of the lamp. In a switch, polarity does not play a special role. In the cartridge, the phase conductor must be connected to the central contact, and the neutral conductor to the side. If the terminal block is removed from the lamp socket, then it is already indicated on it where to start the phase, zero and ground. Observe these values.

We assemble the switch and put the lamp in place ...

Now you need to twist the wires in the junction box and not confuse anything. Here you should get three twists:

1. The neutral conductor coming from the shield is twisted with the neutral conductor leaving for the lamp.
2. The phase conductor coming from the shield is twisted with the phase conductor going to the switch.
3. Another conductor coming from the switch (it will be phase when the switch key is pressed) is twisted with the phase conductor leaving the lamp.

Now for better contact and long service life of the connection, it is necessary to solder all the twists. Then we isolate them with electrical tape or PVC pipes and carefully place them in a junction box, it is desirable that they do not come into contact with each other.

In the photo, I did not solder and did not insulate the twists. Excuse me.

Close the box and turn on the light!

That's not all...

In most cases, it happens that it is necessary to connect the next box from this junction box, and from it already organize light in another room. Below I will show you in detail how this can be done.

It is necessary to bring a wire into the existing junction box and lay it to the next box.

To connect the next distribution box (with a loop), it is necessary to twist the phase conductor leaving it with the phase conductor coming from the shield, and the neutral conductor of the outgoing wire must be twisted with the neutral conductor coming from the shield. The photo below shows it all perfectly. Wire #1 is the incoming wire from the panel, and wire #2 is the outgoing wire to the next junction box.

Wiring diagram for a two-gang switch

Below I propose to disassemble the connection diagram of a two-gang switch. There is nothing complicated here and you can figure it out in everything, the main thing is not to confuse the wires. Here it is already necessary to lead 3-wire wires to the switch and to the chandelier.

Before connecting the wires to the 2-key switch, be sure to check the marking of the contacts. The designation "L" means that this contact it is necessary to connect the phase conductor coming from the distribution box. The designations "1" and "2" mean that they must be connected to phase conductors that go to different groups of lamps in the chandelier or to different lamps No. 1 and No. 2.

On my switch, which is shown in the photo, all three contacts are brought to the top. Yours may be different. It depends on the make and model of the switch. They are different, but the designations on them are usually the same.

Now twist the wire. The main thing here is not to confuse anything. In the photo below, I signed everything in detail and everything is clearly visible there. Read carefully and connect your wires as well. You should have four twists. I showed schematically how to connect the wire to a chandelier or to different lamps. If something is not clear, write in the comments, we will figure it out together. Also keep in mind that the phase will flow through the wire from the switch to the box through all the cores and therefore it will not be possible to observe the color marking here.

We solder all the twists, isolate them and carefully place them in the junction box.

We collect the switch and try to turn on the light, thus checking the correctness assembled circuit switch connections.

Let's smile:

The drunken electrician buried his forehead in a pole.
A bare wire dangles nearby.
Electrician: - Nope…
He grabs a wire with his hand, twitches from an electric shock:
- Everybody! Understood! Understood!

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

When installing or repairing a home, it inevitably becomes necessary to install or replace light switches. Such work is not particularly difficult and may well be performed by a non-specialist who has an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat a lamp connection diagram is and what electrical safety rules should be followed during its installation. That is why, before proceeding with such work, you should first figure out how to connect a light switch.

The use of single-key devices is advisable in cases where it is necessary to organize the switching of a wire through which one light bulb or lamp receives power. If you need to connect a chandelier that has a large number of lamps, then it is better to use a multi-key device. Another case in which it is preferable to use two- or three-gang switches is when using such a device it is necessary to ensure the inclusion of light bulbs in different rooms, for example, in the corridor, bathroom and toilet.

Necessary tools and materials

Before proceeding with the installation of a single-gang switch, you need to take care of the availability of such tools and consumables:

1. Switch.
2. Light fixture with lamp.
3. Insulating tape.
4. Knife for stripping insulation.
5. indicator screwdriver.

In the event that before installing the switching device, the wiring was not done and the socket box was not installed, you will have to stock up on such additional tools and materials:

1. Alabaster.
2. Junction box. This part is needed only when it is necessary to install new wiring in the room. Otherwise, you just need to find the nearest installed box and connect the lamp and switch through it.
3. Perforator.
4. Container for mixing putty.
5. Bulgarian with a circle on concrete.
6. Ladder.
7. Putty knife.
8. Wires.

According to the installation method, two types of such devices are distinguished: internal and invoice. Their principle of operation does not differ and lies in the fact that when a key is pressed, an electrical circuit is closed or opened.

The surface-mounted product is mainly used in rooms with wooden walls. Its main advantage is the extreme ease of installation. Such a device can easily be used as a temporary switch, which is installed in order to avoid large-scale repairs that are fraught with large financial costs.

The built-in model undoubtedly looks more compact and aesthetically appealing than its previous counterpart. However, for its installation, it is necessary to provide hidden wiring. Such work involves the need for chasing walls for laying electrical wires, which is fraught with a large amount of dust and damage to the wall cladding. That is why they try to combine the installation of built-in sockets and switches with the repair work in the apartment.

• Plastic key. Serves for the convenience of turning on and off the contacts of the device.
• Decorative frame. This element is made of a dielectric material and also performs the function of protection against electric shock. The frame can be attached to the main body with plastic latches or metal bolts.

A little more complicated is the backlit switch device, which has an undeniable advantage - it is perfectly visible in the dark. Such a function not only relieves a person of the need to fumble in the dark in search of a switch, but also makes it possible to use this device as a kind of night light.

There are also modular and waterproof switches. Modular devices are designed for installation in a cable channel and are mainly used to connect lamps in office premises. As for moisture-proof models, their use is advisable in rooms with high humidity, for example, in bathrooms, bathrooms or outdoors when outdoor lights are connected.

Connection diagram of a single-gang switch

The main rule that must be observed when installing switching devices is the need to install them on a phase conductor. In other words, when a light bulb, lamp or other consumer is turned off using such a device, a phase disappears at its input. This gives a guarantee of protection against accidental electric shock in the event of a violation of the insulation of the electrical wiring or when touching open live parts.

If the switch is connected correctly, then when it is turned off, you can safely change burnt out bulbs and carry out work on maintenance lamp.

The light switch is installed according to the diagram shown in the figure.

As you can see from the diagram, no difficulties correct connection does not trigger the light switch. The picture also shows the ground wire going through the junction box to the luminaire. In the electrical wiring of old houses, such a conductor may be absent.

As can be seen from the diagram, it provides two different paths for the passage of current through two switches installed in the circuit. The luminaires are powered only if the contacts of the switches close the conductors of the same branch. This can be done by changing the key position of any of them.

Installation procedure

Before installing the switch, it is necessary to lay the electrical wires connecting the lamp, the junction box and the switch itself.

If a built-in type device is mounted, then you must first install the socket box by releasing about 10 cm of wire from it. This should be done for the convenience of connecting the wire to the switch contacts.

The installation of the socket box (box) is carried out in the same way as in the case of connecting an electrical outlet. After drilling a recess in the wall, the socket box is fixed in it with alabaster.

If all the preparatory work has already been done, then you can proceed with the installation of the switch.

Step by step instructions for correct installation single-gang switch looks like this:

1. De-energize the electrical network. This can be done using a machine or plugs located on the introductory shield.
2. Remove key. It is attached to the elements of the working part with the help of plastic grooves. Therefore, this element can be removed with your fingers without much effort.
3. Remove the protective frame, which in most cases is attached to the working mechanism with two screws.
4. Clean the ends of the wire intended for connection to the switch terminals from insulation. If the working part of the device provides for the connection of wires using a bolted connection, then approximately 1 cm of each wire must be freed from insulation. In the event that self-clamping contacts are used, 0.5 cm will be sufficient.
5. Connect the wire ends to the switch contacts. At the same time, attention should be paid to their correct connection in accordance with the marking of the contacts. Many models of these devices use the designation L or 1 for incoming and 3 or arrow for outgoing wire. When tightening the bolts, the force must be calculated in such a way as not to damage the contacts. This is especially true for cheap models of switches. You should also pay attention to the fact that there should not be wire insulation under the bolts, as this can lead to overheating and even destruction of the joints.
6. Install the working mechanism in the socket. For this, sliding legs or special screws are used. When installing such a device, it is important not to confuse its upper and lower parts. A correctly installed switch is in the on position when the button is pressed. upper part keys. To determine at which of the states of the working mechanism the circuit closes, it is enough to make several trial inclusions and disconnections. To turn on the mechanism, you need to apply some force, and when you turn it off, just touch the key lightly - a special spring helps to quickly break the electrical connection.
7. Install protective frame. To achieve the correct location of the frame, you can use the building level.
8. Set key.

USEFUL INFORMATION: Installation of two-gang switches, wiring diagram

When installing a backlit switch, all work is carried out in the same way as when connecting an ordinary device. The only difference is the need to attach a small electrical circuit to the switch contacts, consisting of a current-limiting resistor and a neon light bulb or LED.

The principle of operation of such a backlight is quite simple. Due to the high resistance of the resistor when the contacts of the switch are closed electricity practically does not pass through the LED. But when the working contacts of the switch are opened, the backlight circuit becomes the only path through which current can pass.

It should be noted that when choosing a switching device designed to work with energy-saving lamps, you need to pay attention to the elements of the backlight. If it uses an LED, the lamp in the fixture may flicker slightly when off.