Alteration of luminescent desk lamp on LED. How to make a lamp from LED tape with your own hands. Alteration under LED tape

If the old Soviet luminaire with fluorescent lamps daylight LB-40 type, LB-80 has failed, or you tired of changing the starter in it, dispose of the lamps themselves (and simply so throw them into the trash can not be possible), it can be easily remand into the LED.

The most important thing is that in luminescent and LED lamps the same socles - G13. No modernization of the housing, in contrast to other types of pin contacts, will not be required.

  • G- Indicates that pins are used as contacts
  • 13 is the distance in millimeters between these pins

Advantages of alteration

At the same time you will receive:


  • Large light
  • Lower losses (almost half of the useful energy in fluorescent lamps can be lost in the choke)
  • Lack of vibration and other rattling sound from ballast choke

True, in more modern models, an electronic ballast is already used. They rose in them (90% or more), noise disappeared, but energy consumption and light stream remained at the same level.

For example, new models of such LGOs and Lavo are often used for ArmStrong ceilings. Here is an approximate comparison of their effectiveness:

Another advantage of LED - there are models designed for supply voltage from 85V to 265V. For luminescent you need 220V or close to it.

For LED such, even if the voltage on the network you have a weak or overestimated, they will start and shine without complaints.

Electromagnetic lamps

What you need to pay attention to the alteration of simple luminescent lamps in LED? First of all, on its design.

If you have a simple lamp of the old Soviet sample with starters and ordinary (non-electronic PRA) choke, it is actually nothing to be upgraded.

Just pull out the starter, pick up under overall size A new LED lamp, insert it into the housing and enjoy brighter and economical lighting.


If the starter from the schema is not removed, then when replacing the LB lamp to LED, you can create a short circuit.

The throttle is not necessarily dismantled. In LED, the current consumed will be within 0.12a-0.16a, and the ballast has a working current in such old lamps 0.37A-0.43a, depending on the power. In fact, it will perform the role of an ordinary jumper.

After all alterations, the lamp you remain the same. The ceiling does not need to change the mount, and the burnt lamps do not have to utilize and look for special containers for them.

For such lamps, individual drivers and power supplies are not needed, as they are already embedded inside the case.

The main thing is to remember the main feature - in LED, two pin contacts on the base are rigidly interconnected.

And in luminescent, they are connected by the thread of the heat. When it is repelled, Ignition of mercury vapor.

In the electronic models, the glow is not used and the gap between the contacts makes itself a high voltage pulse.

The most common sizes of such tubes:


  • 900mm and 1200mm

The more their length, the brighter the glow.

Alteration of the lamp with electronic rights

If you have a model more modern, without a starter, with an e-choke of the EPR (electronic port-regulating machine), then here will have to be a little tinted with the change in the scheme.

What is inside the lamp to the alteration:

  • throttle
  • wires
  • Contact pads - cartridges on the sides of the case

The throttle is what will need to throw out first. Without it, the whole design will significantly lose in weight. Remove the fastening screws or drill rivets depending on the fastener.

Then disconnect the feed wires. To do this, you may need a screwdriver with a narrow sting.

You can wiring data and simply have a snack by passatages.

The diagram of connecting two lamps is different, everything is much simpler on LED:

The main task that needs to be solved is to submit 220V to different lamp ends. That is, the phase is one conclusion (for example, right), and zero to another (left).

It was previously said that the LED lamp was both pin contacts inside the base, interconnected with a jumper. Therefore, it is impossible here as in luminescent, to submit between them 220V.

To make sure that you use the multimeter. Install it in the measurement mode of the resistance, and touching the measuring ships of the two conclusions to make measurements.

The same values \u200b\u200bshould be displayed on the scoreboard as when the probe is closed with each other, i.e. zero or close to it (taking into account the resistance of the probes themselves).

In the lamp of daylight, between two conclusions on each side, there is resistance of the filament, which, after the voltage of 220V, it is heated and "starts" the lamp.

  • Without dismantling the cartridges
  • With dismantling and installing jumpers through their contacts

Without dismantling

The easiest way is without dismantling, but you have to purchase a pair of wago clamps.
I whip in general all the wires suitable for the cartridge at a distance of 10-15mm or more. Next, make them in the same clamp of Vago.

Also do the same with the other side of the lamp. If the WAGO terminal bar does not have enough contacts, you will have to use 2 pcs.

After that, everything that remains is to use the clamp on one side of the phase, and on another zero.

No Wago, just twist the wires under the cap. With this method, you do not need to deal with the existing scheme, with jumpers, climb into contacts of cartridges, etc.

With dismantling of cartridges and installation of jumpers

Another method is more scrupulous, but it does not require any extra costs.

Remove the side covers from the lamp. It is necessary to do it carefully, because In modern products, the latches are made of fragile and breaking plastics.

After that, you can remove the contact cartridges. There are two contacts inside them that are isolated from each other.

Such cartridges may be several varieties:

All of them are equally suitable for lamps with the base G13. There may be springs inside them.

First of all, they are not needed for better contact, And in order for the lamp to fall out of it. Plus, at the expense of the springs, there is some compensation for the size of the length. Since with accuracy to a millimeter, it is not always possible to make the same lamp.

Two wires are suitable for each patron. Most often, they are attached by snaping into special without screw contacts.

Machine them clockwise and counterclockwise, and putting the effort pull out one of them.

As mentioned above, contacts inside the connector are isolated from each other. And dismantling one of the wiring, you actually leave no one contact nest.

All current will now flow through another contact. Of course, everything will work on one, but if you make a lamp for yourself, it makes sense to improve the design slightly, putting a jumper.

Thanks to her, you do not have to catch contact, turning the LED lamp on the sides. Dual connector will provide a reliable connection.

The jumper can be made of unnecessary wires of the lamp itself, which you will definitely remain as a result of the alteration.

Tester check that after mounting the jumper, there is a chain between previously insulated connectors. The same is done with the second mobile contact on the other side of the lamp.

The main thing to ensure that the remaining power wire is no longer a phase, but zero. The rest is whining.

Luminescent lamps for two, four or more lamps

If the lamp you have a two-block, it is best to supply voltage to each connector to each connector.

When installing a simple jumper between two or more cartridges, the design will have a significant drawback.

The second lamp will light up, only under the condition that the first is installed in its place. Remove it, and then the other will go out.

The feeding conductors must converge on the terminal block, where alternately you will be connected:

Probably at least once, but you have seen this desktop lamp, more often, similar structures are used with manipulations in beauty salons.
However, in ordinary home life, such a lamp is very convenient.
Since, I spend enough time for a laptop, I had such light on a rather long tripod just. Only here we emitted cold white light CW I do not consider comfortable. The lamp worked with me for more than a year, and I began to suspect that soon, work period luminescent lamp Suited by the end, and in advance I ordered the coil of the LED tape in advance.

The tape came, and I only have to wait for the lamp burning - that in a few days and happened.

I suggest you with me to look at this version of the constructions alteration on:
- application of it with LED ribbon;
- think (and implement) about what new qualities this lamp can purchase;
- to a little reproducing the rotation knot of the reflector;
- To dream, what else could it be, if you wish, add to the already ready lamp.

Disassembly.

She did not work, it is always easier to disassemble. Pay attention to the massive throttle, which was hidden in the cubic cavity of the vertical rotary assembly of the lamp system. I got rid of it, but throwing away, of course he did not.

In the laying of the lamp, there was a plastic container with the cement filled into it, it was pleasantly surprised me - I expected to find a bag with sand. Of course, this weighting agent will have to replace something. I'm running forward. I will say that at that time, I was leaning toward the sand, but the replacement was found.

Self coil with a ribbon on 2835 LEDs. The choice was not random. Too big power (Brightness) I did not want, as it would have to think about the removal of significant heat. I didn't want to complicate the design of the dimming design - since I don't like long -comers. And the ribbon must be WW - warm white glow. In general, I bought exactly what I wanted.

The tape was sliced \u200b\u200bby 8 segments, and is glued with a sticky layer to a standard reflector.
Here I came down, realizing that how much I have to solder ...

Cutting a suitable piece of the circuit board, I prepared and irradiated 16 conductors. At the same time, a group of eight conductors is located in the center of the circuit board and was defined as positive conductors, and two groups of four conductor were intended to connect to the negative power supply pool.

To my joy, soldered very easily, and literally after 7 minutes, I already turned out the finished option.


and

I planted the scarf itself on the thermocons, and checked the work at a reduced voltage, "the result was pleased.

Power supply and stand.

I decided to post it in the stand. Just, one, quite overall, I had without a case. And again, run ahead, I will say that - such a placement of the power supply is not the only one.

Because, I could not post a regular weightlifier, I could have grabbed a plastic bag with sand, but I remembered that six years ago, I was engaged in a semi-colts of healers from lead and escaped to his magician shed. In the same Saraike, I came across my rubber ball pierced me.

The semiring was flattened on the odor, because, in height, they interfered with the assembly of the base of the lamp, and were wrapped in half from the blown ball - it turned out close, tight and elastic. \u003d)

Yes, pay attention to the segment of the twisted cord - it was one end soldier to 12V from the power supply, passed into the hole on the back of the stand. At the other end, it was soldered a plug for connecting to the response nest, which I placed in an empty cubic cavity left after extracting the throttle.

General view turned out

Minor repairs.

After one-year operation, the head of the lamp with the reflector ceased to be fixed in horizontalposition. In other words, if the head of the lamp is turned at an angle to the top of the legs of the lamp, the rotary node did not hold the weight of the head, and the head itself, went down.
In this, of course, the weight of the luminescent light bulb was to blame. And although the weight of the whole node of the lamp significantly decreased, - this problem remained.
It was impossible to disassemble this node, and I simply had a plastic node's plastic stretch, and screwed up between spring petals Self-tapping screw.
Everyone who came across a similar type of lamp, with this defect of the swivel knot necessarily faced - we will understand \u003d)


and

Sensory control.

Look down the photos, you see a pink USB lamp on a flexible leg, it is touch. Such lamps, I scored five pieces a few years ago fifty cents per one.



In general, I presented three, and two left. LEDs in one of them lost brightness, it is especially noticeable in comparison with the new one.

Inside the lamp hide:
- chip TPP223;
- Field N (corrected, for which - thanks) Channel transistor Si2302.;
- three LEDs;
- And SMD bind all this.

This is a finished control scheme, and not to be poured on it, I could not.
The only thing that, on TPP223, I filed from an integral stabilizer 3.3V. Two LEDs I sank off the board, and one extreme left - for debugging. Low-level resistors I put an experiment for the sake of, then, I removed them.
The total current was less than one ampere \u003d)

What could be done otherwise.

I, as you see, applied the overall power supply - but it was so.
You have also seen that the cubic cavity in which the throttle was located, it remained empty. If there will be a low-sized power supply at 12V, then it is better to place it there. Then, in the stand, you can place coils wireless charging, they are right there and suggest, and for the detachable connection of the stand and power supply, you can use the same technique that I used \u003d)

PS.
I did not know that the lamps are quite common among readers \u003d))
A piece of video is available on the link to

I got myself on a test LEDs 10 W 900LM warm white light on Aliexpress. The price in November 2015 was 23 rubles per piece. The order came in the standard sachet, checked all the serviceable.


Special blocks are used to power the LEDs in lighting devices - electronic drivers, which are converters stabilizing current, and not the voltage on its output. But since the drivers for them (ordered also on Aliexpiess) were still on the way he decided to power from the ballast from energy-saving lamps. I had several such faulty lamps. who burned the thread of the heat in the flask. As a rule, these lamps have a voltage converter, and it can be used as pulse block Nutrition or LED driver.
We disassemble a luminescent lamp.


For the alteration, I took 20 W lamp, whose throttle with ease can be given to the load of 20 W. For 10 W LEDs no longer remakes required. If you plan to put in more powerful LEDYou need to take a converter from a more powerful lamp, or set a throttle with a large core.
Set the jumpers in the circuit of the ignition lamp.

I wrapped 18 turns of the enamel on the choke, we swell the conclusions of the wound winding to the diode bridge, we feed on the lamp network voltage And measure the output voltage. In my case, the block gave 9.7V. Connect the LED through the ammeter, which showed the current passing through the LED in 0.83a. At my LED, the operating current is 900mA, but I reduced the current to increase the resource. Assembled a diode bridge on the board by attachment.

Alteration scheme.

LED installed on a thermal paste on a metal lampshade old desktop lamp.

Food fee and diode bridge installed in a table lamp housing.

When working at about an hour, the temperature of the LED is 40 degrees.

The eye is illumination as from a 100 watt incandescent lamp.

I plan to buy +128. Add to favourites I liked the review +121 +262

Lighting is the most important component of the interior. It is from the lighting that the comfort of the comfort of our dwelling depends. The game of light and shadow allows you to beat the winning moments of the interior and take attention from unsuccessful moments. And also - lamps, lamps, chandeliers and lamps create that atmosphere that we call the "house." Make a dwelling only "your", personal, individual will help unique lamps and the best way - Make upgrade with your own hands. Homemade Plafones and lampshades are the horse, which will allocate your home from others.

Safety words

In the manufacture of lamps, lamps and chandeliers in industrial environments, the minimum distance from the "body" of the lamp to the materials is pre-performed. It depends on the distance from the power and thermal radiation of the lamp and on the type (flammability) of the material from which the ceiling / lamp shade is manufactured. At home, it is unlikely that someone will bother with such calculations. And in order not to create a dangerous situation, you should adhere to certain rules.

And in general, making a lamp and installing it, in the first few days, pay attention to whether there is a ceiling. Heating is considered to be any increase in temperature above the environment. If the ceiling is felt like "warm", change the light bulb into less powerful. Check again. So as long as the homemade lampshade will not warm up.

Where to get a frame

If you want to remake the old lamp, the lamp, the brain, whose old lampshade came into disrepair, you can simply use the existing foundation old Material. Before starting work, look good for the framework, if there is a rust somewhere or damaged coating, can it stand everything and paint again? At the same time, the color can be changed. If old frames are not, you can buy inexpensive lamp (in the store or on the flea market) and do the same operations with it. Not bad lampshades can be done from baskets for garbage. They are wire, there are plastic. The main thing is to find suitable in shape and size. Then you make a hole under the cartridge. Next - it's a decoration / trim, and here the sea options.

If this method is unavailable, you can make a lamp shade without a frame (there are such) or make a frame yourself. Material for making frame for lampshar do it yourself. It is: wire, wood (wooden or bamboo sticks, cut specially elements), plastic bottles.

How to make a frame for homemade label from wire

Wire for a lamp frame is needed aluminum or steel. With aluminum work easily, but it is easy. This is not very important when the lampshade is already exploited, but this fact must be taken into account during operation: you can spoil the form. On the other hand, such plasticity allows you to easily and simply make changes to the form. So the option is not bad. Aluminum wire can be "mined" from electrical cables. We will have to remove the protective shell and can be used.

Stall wire more elastic, so it retains the form well. It can be searched in the construction market. Work with her more. It is desirable that there were strong men's hands nearby.

In addition to the wire for work, powerful plugs and passage will need. The lamp shade usually consists of two rings and connecting their racks. From the size of the rings and shapes of the racks depends on the form of the future lampshar. Questions may arise by the number of racks and ways to fasten them. The number of racks depends on the size of the rings and how much "round" you want to make a lampshade. The more racks, the more "smoothly" the fabric will fall. So choose to you, but the optimal distance between the racks along the lower circle is about 5-6 cm.

Receptions for creating a wire label

Molding methods The stack to the rings of the lampshar depend on the thickness and type of wire, as well as from your tools you have. The easiest - to make a small hook on the end, then clamp it tightly. And so that the ring does not slide right-left, pre-wire in the place of attachment to treat sandpaper with large grain. This option for Tolstoy aluminum wire. If the wire is steel, with a diameter of 1.2-2 mm or more, the best way is. Wirestone can be cut and wind around the ring or also make a hook.

If you make hooks, wed up the wire, appearance It turns out not so ideal as factory frames. But this imperfection will be covered by the lampshade itself. If she is still worried, find the ribbon of suitable color (usually pick up the aboire color) and carefully wrap the resulting frame. Will be much better. The ribbon can be labeled with PVA and, wet, tight, twice behind the turn, wrap the frame.

From wire mesh

If you can find a thin wire mesh, you can quickly make an almost perfect cylindrical plander for a flooring, a table lamp, a night light, a ceiling for installing a candle, etc. Total and it is necessary that cut off a piece of mesh of the desired length and width, roll into the ring and fasten the wires, wrapped them around the racks.

So that the grid does not straighten up, cutting off the piece, cut the long free ends from both sides. They will fasten the cylindrical shape. And the imperfection of the upper and lower rings can be masked with the ribbon of the desired color.

From five-liter plastic bottle

An interesting form of lampshade can turn out of a plastic bottle of large litter. There are bottles of 5-6 liters and even on 10. Here you can use them. From the tank, cut off the tops go to the bottom - depending on what you like more. In the cut part we make a ring under the cartridge. If cut off top partFor some cartridges you can use the neck. For those more diameter, it will have to cut.

Then cut out extra plastic, forming the rim and racks of the ceiling. To not be mistaken, you can pre-draw all lines with a marker. Cut will be easier. VCE elementary. Next we just decorate. And yes, cut plastic necessarily, otherwise there will be no warm air to go.

We make lampshades on the frame

Options for how to make the case of the lampshar sufficiently:


From tapes

The easiest I. fast way Transform an old lamp shade for a lamp or a table lamp - use tapes. Need a frame or lamp shade in the form of a cylinder. It can be "naked" or covered with cloth. If you use a "naked" frame, the light will break through the slots, which will create interesting light effects, but the lighting will be inhomogeneous. You are uncomfortable to read with such a light - this is an interior solution. If you need smooth lighting, first cover the frame to the cloth. It can be the same color that the tapes, on a couple of tones darker or lighter, can be contrasting. It all depends on your desire. And remember that the darker there will be a cloth, the smaller the light skips the lampshade.

Take the tape with a width of 1-2.5 cm. I fix it from the wrong side of the lampshar with the help of PVA glue, additionally fixing the pin. If we took a wire frame without fabric, fastened to the upper or lower line (you can sew your hands, you can use glue). Then we start wrapping the entire frame, from top to bottom, placing the ribbons close to each other, but without an adhesion.

Having finished the circle, we turn the ribbon to 90 °. Fix in this position (needle with a thread or plow glue, glue from the gun, fixing the temporarily pin, pressing the clothespin). Further ribbon we skip under the first ribbon, pull out, put on top of the second, then stretch down again, pull up through one tape. So, gradually, we create a weave, filling the entire lampshade.

Alternatively, you can skip two vertical tapes. But then it is necessary to ensure that each next row is shifted by one cross. Then it will turn out another type of weave. Such a lampshade is ideal for flooring, as it will go down the light, the dispersion through the walls will be small.

IN this variant Ribbons may be the same, can - one color, but of different textures, may differ on a couple of tones or be contrasting. In a circle, the tape can be allowed solid, and it is possible - after a certain distance. If you find a wide ribbon and impose it with the overe, then there will be no horizontal at all. And if you use a braided or twisted cord (on the bottom photo on the right), we get a completely different type of lampshade. So only this technician finishing the lampshar gives a lot of options.

Briefly imagine ideas. There are many options for how non-standard ways to make standard frameworks for lampshades. The first method was already voiced: you can connect the case on the lampshade on the needles or crochet. Several options in the photo.

Not everyone can knit. It is easier to work with beads, especially if it is glued. You can decorate the old fabric using beads, sequins, beads of different shapes and sizes. Such a "new-old" lamp shade do it in a couple of hours. We pick up suitable decorations, scrub the fabric with PVA glue, stick decorations. To complete the image, you can collect suspensions from beads and beads, which are attached to the lower line, but it is already painstaking work. Although the effect is interesting.

You can sew a new label of fabric. But it is not necessary to make it updated copy of the old. It should be included fantasy! If the lamp or floor lamp stand in the girl's room, the new case on the lampsur can be made in the form of a skirt. Select the style of the skirt yourself. It is interesting to look into the fold. With ruffles and without.

In the boy's room you can use the old geographical map. They are on dense paper. If the paper is not sufficient enough, you first need to stick the card to the cardboard, and then from such a blank glue the lamp shade.

Original Plafones are obtained if ready carcass Sleep threads or ropes. Ropes can be natural. In this case, they are gray, brown beige. You can find fine synthetic colored cords. Of these, it will turn out more "fun" in the color of the product. It is even easier for the case with threads for knitting. They are thin, thick, textured, with a smoothly changing color. In general, mass options.

We take the frame and according to a certain scheme of its soaring. You can start with racks. Each rack with a pigtail (the length of the threads should be 3 times more than the height of the rack). When this work is over, start stretching the thread / rope between the racks. They will need to pass through the pigtails, so that with threads are more convenient to do it with the help of a needle, and the ropes can be turned on and so.

The second option - first empty the horizontally the entire frame, and then lay the rack. The pigtail will not succeed here, you just need to fasten the turns on the rack with a certain slope. This version performed is somewhat simpler, but the "pigtails" look more decoratively.

Homemade beams without frame

Many materials are tough enough to keep the shape on their own and, at the same time, they are enough plastic to make something interesting from them. There are a lot of such homemade lampshads. And almost all of them cost your attention. We only give a part here, the other part will go in the photo section (see below).

From knitted lace napkins

Crochet-knit napkinsome have many and lie in the "honeycomb", as it is a pity to throw out, and they do not know how. There is a very interesting idea - make from them a lampshade for chandelier on the suspension. Besides napkins need a big balloon Or inflatable ball, glue for heavy wallpapers (vinyl, silk-screen printing, etc.), brush.

Machine glue according to the instructions, we wait until I fell. I inflate the ball or take the ball, hang. When the glue is ready, on some clean surface we lay the napkin, we wash it with glue, lay out on the ball.

It is necessary to lay out with such a condition that the center will remain in the center. One by one we glue the napkin. It is necessary to lay out so that the edges overlap a little. When all the napkins are laid, once again we wash them with glue and leave up to dry. When the glue is dry, blow the ball or ball (the ball can be pierced if not sorry) and take it out through the hole. That's all, lace abazhur is ready.

In some cases, there are problems with the way ready-made lampshade to hang on the cartridge. The problem is solved simply - take a transparent plastic bottle, cut off her neck, if necessary, expand the hole to of the desired size (To make tightly on the cartridge), then cut off the plastic so that it turns out a ring of 5-7 cm wide. This ring is riveted with PVA glue, and from the inside the ball is lining to the lamp.

Round rafones from threads

In almost the same technology, you can make round and semicircular stylish plaffones. Choose a fracture color. Their composition is absolutely unimportant - the color, thickness and texture is important. They can be shaggy, smooth, twisted, fond and thoroughly. The appearance depends on this. It is most convenient to work with cotton threads of medium thickness. They absorb glue well and then, after drying, hold the shape perfectly.

You still need a ball or a ball. It will be the basis of the lampshar, which sets the form. The size of the base is as desired. Threads need to glue, for this you will need PVA glue. It is transferred to the container, diluted with water in proportion 1: 1.

You can use another glue. It is important that it becomes transparent after drying. This is WB-29 TYTAN PROFESSIONAL and D2 glue for carpentry work. If you use some of these types of glue, read the instructions.

On the ball or bowl, draw a circle that will be slightly smaller than the lamp cartridge. On the opposite side, we draw a more circumference - it will be the bottom edge of the ceiling. Now everything is ready, we can proceed.

We wash the thread by glue and wake them on the ball in chaotic order. It is more convenient to do this if the glue is poured into the container - you can lower all the modes, and just pull the thread slowly. With glue in a tube, everything is not so comfortable: it is necessary to miss areas length up to meter, wind, wrap again. Time leaves much longer. This is if used not pva. But the products are obtained more rigid and do not sag, do not change the form over time, as it can happen to the nietary lampshades on PVA.

When winding threads on the ball, diligently go around drawn circles. If accidentally climbed to the "Forbidden territory", simply put the threads, forming a smooth (more or less smooth) edge. When the threads are completed or you decide that the density is enough, the process can be stopped. The edge of the thread is refueling between others. Everything. Further, the ball with wound threads once again we wash the glue (PVA can be poured) and leave to drying (at least 2 days). To do not ride the ball, we find a bowl or a saucepan and use it as a stand.

The last stage - blow the ball or ball. If the ball has nipple, press it with a thin wire, releasing air. Having embarrassed the ball. On this, everything can be traded inside the lamp and test the lampshade.

The technology is the same, but the appearance is very different ...

According to the technology described above, you can make not only round beams. Rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal. Choose the foundation that is easy to remove, wind the thread moistened in the glue, braid, even stick, newspaper tubes, etc. After drying, you delete the foundation and so, you made the lampshade with your own hands. A couple of examples in the photo below.

And you can also use sticks .... Only the ball also wrap the food film and use the PVA not glue, but a transparent joiner

This is a pasty polymer clay in a tube, which was applied to a package from under milk, then dried and the package was removed ...

Creative homemade beams for lamps, lamps and chandeliers

Just the diva is given, from which only people do not make beautiful and unusual things. Plafof from a cup, grates, bottles, beer or glass jars, metal parts and rings from beer cans ... it seems you can use everything ...

Abazhur from the old sieve ... stylish

Candlesticks turn into a lamp ... can be without landscair

In life, you will not say, but these plafones are made of hooks, which open metal cans for drinks and canned food ... If you paint them, it will be even more interesting

Do not know what to do with granny crystal? Make plafoons from it ...

With any work, as well as during the rest, you need a good light. You can buy a lamp, but sometimes it is not suiced. In the store, instead of the finished lamp, you can purchase lED ribbon.. It is relatively inexpensive and cuts into pieces of any length. If you place it in the case or fasten with another way, you will get a homemade lamp with a LED ribbon. Such a lamp can be taken with you to the tent on fishing. In hiking conditions, the LED lamp connects to the automotive battery.

Scope of homemade LED lamps

Homemade LED lamps under the LED ribbon can be used instead of normal:

  • highlighting the workplace when performing small works in a workshop or garage;
  • the backlight from the top of the aquarium (if the ribbon is water-proof or in a hermetically case, then the lamp can be lowered into water);
  • illuminated seedlings or room plants in winter;
  • night light or table lamp;
  • illumination of switches and sockets;
  • lighting computer keyboard;
  • to replace fluorescent lamps.

On the Internet, you can find many other types of floor lamps and ceiling chandeliers from LED tape with photos and videos, as well as reviews of people who collected and enjoyed such lamps.

Types and parameters of LED ribbons

LED Tape Coloring Options

LED ribbons are produced different performance by the type of protectedness. They can be of different brightness and various colors, which is determined by the color temperature - from the warm white (2700K) to the cold (6800K), as well as color or capable of changing their color - RGB tapes. This makes it possible to choose the type of device for specific purposes.

LED tape device

LED tape is a flexible plastic strip with conductive stripes deposited on it. Two are located on the edges and connect to them. The rest connect the LEDs and resistors among themselves. They are located groups - three LEDs connected in series, and a resistor that serves to limit the current flowing through them.


Parameters of LED Ribbon

The strip itself can be cut to the sections, multiple to three LEDs. In these places there are marks indicating the place of cutting and contact pads to which they are soldered or connected using wire connector.

LEDs can be coated with a layer of silicone from one or two sides. This determines the degree of protection against external influences. FROM back side An adhesive layer is applied to the strip, as on double-sided scotch. With it, the LEDs are attached to the base.

The most common supply voltage is constant, 12V. There are constructions designed to connect to 24V voltage and higher, but these are low-prolonged structures.

Types of used LEDs

LEDs and ribbon resistors are used by SMD series, without conclusions. LEDs in production are used various sizewhich determines the labeling of the tape - 5050 and 3528. These figures show the size of the LED in the tenths of the millimeter


Visual difference 5050 and 3528

Opinion expert

Alexey Bartosh

Ask a question expert

The larger size, the higher the brightness and consumed current and power. It also depends on the number of LEDs per meter length.

Accordingly, the labeling of the SMD 5050 tape with a density of 60 LEDs means that 60 SMD 5050 LEDs are installed on the meter.

Controllers, Power Supplies for LED Tapes


Controller and power supply

Since the LED tape is designed for a constant voltage of 12V, the power supply or controller is required to connect.

Important! When you turn on the LED tape in a 220 volt network, it will instantly braid!

Power supplies are made of different power and shapes. From low-power, similar to charging device From tablet to powerful structures in a metal case with built-in coolers.


Power supply unit LED ribbons

Some power supplies are equipped with dimmers and consoles. remote control. For rGB tapes A RGB controller is required that allows you to control the color.

There are models with WiFi control, with color-chicken effects, for example, Arilux® AL-LC01.

If there is no special block, you can use:

  • Any transformer with output voltage 12V. To the exit, you must connect the diode bridge and smoothing capacitor.
  • Computer power supply both in the computer itself and separately.
  • If you need 3-6 LEDs, then a capacitor can be used to limit the current, as well as a diode bridge and a capacitor that smoothes the ripples of the glow. Such a scheme is applied in lED lampsinstalled instead of incandescent lamps. Capacitance of the capacitor can be calculated using an online calculator.
  • Make out of charge of a faulty energy-saving lamp.
  • Connect sequentially 20 pieces of LED tape and connect through the diode bridge and smoothing capacitor to the 220V network.

Preparation of materials and details


Creating a lamp with your own hands

Before starting work, you need to determine the required amount and brightness of the LED strip, as well as the power of the power supply.

First of all, you need to determine the length. For lamps used in different places need:

  • night light and lighting switches and outlets - cut in three LEDs;
  • aquarium backlight - by the length of the wall;
  • the backlight of the bed with a seedler - several pieces, length equal to the length of the bed;
  • computer keyboard - keyboard length;
  • to replace the fluorescent lamp, several pieces are needed, length equal to the length of the lamp.

The brightness of the tape, the size and density of the LEDs is determined on the basis of specific conditions.

Power supply power must be no less power lED lamp, but preferably, 20% more. This is necessary for more reliable operation of the block.

In addition, you will need wires, a shrink tube to isolate the connection location, a soldering iron with a tin and a rosin or connector for connecting.

Opinion expert

Alexey Bartosh

Specialist in repair, maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.

Ask a question expert

Attention! We can not solder ribbon acid! The acid pairs are oxidized and destroyed wires, and can also lead to short circuit.

If the lamp is used in the aquarium for the inner backlight, then the transparent tube and silicone sealant should be needed to ensure the tightness of the design. After the development of the structure of the future lamp and the preparation of all tools and materials is collected by the lamp itself.

Sometimes the entire assembly process is to stick the ribbon on the base, for example, when highlighting the keyboard located on the retractable shelf under the table.

In other cases, the lamp must be made or remake the existing one.

Features and stages of installation work

Installation and connection of the lamp from the LED tape has a number of features:

  • The power supply must be located as close as possible to the LEDs. The longer the wire, the greater the loss of tension in them, which leads to the loss of the brightness of the lamp.
  • It is advisable to isolate the LEDs from the base if it is metallic.
  • When the device is connected directly from the 220V network (through the capacitor), use only a tape covered with silicone on both sides.

Caution! There is a high voltage on this tape, so all manipulations are made to it in the disconnected state.

What to do if there is no finished LED tape

If there is no ready-made LED tape, then it can be done independently.

To do this, the required amount of LEDs must be connected sequentially and connect to them a current-limiting resistance. You can collect such a design on a hetinax or textolite strip, where holes are drilled for mounting the LEDs. Such a device can be collected on any required voltage and the number of LEDs.