We disassemble the MacBook Pro. Apple MacBook Pro laptop disassembly with the Touch Bar panel showed that it is better to be very careful with the device. The effect of replacement thermal paste, battery and several tips

Detailed guide For those who decided.

Apple laptop life cycle is much longer than competitors. It's hard to argue with this, especially if we are talking About models released 3-4 years ago and earlier. Maximum aluminum, thoughtful ergonomics, the location of all elements - it is precisely such devices that look at us from the store shelves.

And somewhere in parallel dimension there are plastic heavyweights with controversial design, terrible accessories, but but a more loyal price tag.

Now the situation was leveled. Competing with Apple brands, too, learned to make beautiful things and have a number of parameters for which some laptop models even exceed "reference MacBook".

But any technique sooner or later requires prevention. It was a queue to engage in such and me.

Why I decided

Note. The technical part of the issue, terminology and aesthetics of service centers, I specifically left the edge of this article. Any of us is important.

At my disposal top 13-inch MacBook Air. 2011.. Five years ago, it was the "beast machine", the processor of which (and here I7 1.8 GHz) grumbled any load in the fluff and dust. 4 GB of RAM - Then it was still a logical standard, and today it is enough for all everyday tasks.

The previous owner belonged to this "workhorse" with due trepidation, and the last two more than two years exploited "in the tail and mane". For this macBook time revealed once, by me. After removing the layer of dust from the cooler area (we all love to work on your knees and soft pillows), the laptop was safely closed, but it was enough for a while.

Problem 1: Skin with an industrial fan

In my usual working mode in OS X, it is launched from a dozen all kinds of applications, including: text editor, Photoshop, browser Safari. Averse to Opera (in every 10-15 tabs), mail, five messengers, iTunes, a pair of FinDer windows. All this works relatively stable first half an hour. And then the real hell begins.

The cooler is spinning at a maximum (and this is a good 6500 revolutions per minute), the keyboard warms up to a temperature that causes discomfort in operation. Applications begin to play the matrix and react with annoying delay ... It is started to inflate - it is so impossible to work!

For the sake of practical interest I install the application istat Menus. [Download] and with surprise I observe the following picture.

In the screenshot, the temperature reaches 96 degrees. Let me remind you that at this moment I do not engage in video editing or handling heavy files. At the moment of such a load, the temperature value crossed the mark in 105 degrees.

What is it fraught? Too high temperature can cause any of the elements on the laptop board. The logical degradation of components begins: capacitors, resistors, crystals and sooner or later you will simply come across the premature demolition MacBook.

Repair or replacement motherboard - This is not suiced, so I strongly recommend periodically checking the temperature using the above utility.

Problem 2: I will tell you how to kill the battery

Work for big monitor Much more pleasant. Many windows are placed, it is possible to effectively place the workspace, please the realistic colors of the decent matrix (Era CRT is already in the distant past) and not so tired eyes. Normal people buy such a goal Mac Mini. or Mac Pro.. Our person - connects the laptop through Display / Thunderbolt Port, complements this from the company Apple Keyboard and Magic Trackpad.And feels like a "winner in life."

To whom I treat, I think you have already understood. 24 hours a day MacBook sneaks on my desktop, never turns off (good power consumption is minimal) and all this time is connected to the network adapter.

After buying, my MacBook Air could boast three clocks autonomous work. Half a year of operation in " system unit"And the battery life has decreased to 40 minutes, and the number charge cycles exceeded 650. You can see in the menu About this Mac -\u003e System Report -\u003e Number of Recharge Cycles.

Apple's official website indicates a preservation guarantee 80% capacity after 1000 recharging cyclesBut apparently, the company's engineers imply a more adequate operation.

Detailed instruction for those who decided.

Do not repeat my mistakes and feel about your Mac battery carefully. How to do this will tell below.

What is it fraught? You feel constantly tied to the outlet, and on the question: "You have a laptop," they simply find it difficult to answer.

Verdict. It was decided - the time of general prophylaxis has come. The first point in the list - replacing the thermal paste on the processor With all the flowing eliminations of dust. Second - battery replacement.

Service center? No, I myself

Computer services industry is well developed today. One call and your Mac will come representative service CenterHe himself will take him, then during the day they will make a "complete" and deliver back. Script options There is weight and you can always find a company or a specialist who will make your MacBook "as a new one." The question is how good it?

Yes, many exactly do it - carried it to the center and let them understand. I, as a person who is interested in technology, technologies and especially all that is connected with Apple, it became interesting do everything yourself.

My readers are now divided into two groups: on those who say: "Yes, what's the heroism here - the hour of work and everything is ready" and those who will twist at the temple with the words: "Well, come on, you still go crookedly. This issue needs a specialist. " I think there will be a third category that will support my desire to climb where it is not supposed.

Battery purchase and thermal paste

So, I need new battery for MacBook Air 13 '' 2011 and thermalcaste. In addition to rumors and beliefs, that everywhere fakes, and the original does not exist (and there is some truth) in this) in the rechargement issue I have nothing to prevent the market. With a thermal coup, everything is solved easier and on the principle "will help me forums."

The first and most important thing is to find out what battery model set specifically in your MacBook. Information can be easily found on the Internet, specifying the exact name of the model and year of release (do not forget about the screen diagonal), but it is best to see the necessary serial number with your own eyes.

In order to open MacBook, we need non-standard (for other household appliances) Computer screwdriver Torx T5. or "asterisk".

Ideally, you need to have two screwdrivers at once: T5. To open the laptop lid and T4. To disconnect the inner screws that hold the battery, cooler and radiator. So the fastening screws will not wear wear from the unsuitable screwdriver format.

Using the T5 screwdriver, carefully unscrew 10 screws:

Two central upper screws are longer than 8 others - do not forget about it when reverse assembly.

Now determine the battery model.

In the model MacBook Air 13 '' 2011 installed battery under the number A1405. And then the case of the technology is to look for the most suitable store on the Internet and order the model you need. Finding "100% of the original" is rather similar to the myth, so we will take care of Chinese labeling and hieroglyphs on the battery calmly. In the end, and your MacBook is proud of the inscription on the back of the case: Made in China.

Regarding the thermal paste. There are many decent options on the market:

  • GLACIAL STARS ICE THERM I
  • Arctic Cooling MX-2
  • DeepCool Z3.
  • ARCTIC SILVER CERAMIQUE 2
  • Cooler Master IC Essential E1.
  • KTT-8 in the end - she is quite good

If you wish, you can make a detailed analysis of the effectiveness of each of the pastes proposed above. Personally, I had no time for a thorough study - the work stopped, and the opened Mac was waiting for the operation.

My choice fell on Cooler Master Ic Essential E1 At once for several reasons. Firstly, she is a little cheaper with a rained Zalman, and secondly, by numerous reviews, it perfectly copes with cooling.

Finally, you buy a full set for self-laying paste: a tube with a "saving substance", an alcoholic napkin and a spatula for smoking the paste layer on the processor. The issue price is about 600 rubles, but the volume of the tube is enough for a dozen-other processors.

Change the battery

All you need for prevention - in your hands. Torx T4 / T5 screwdriver, new battery, thermalcaste, hands and complete concentration.

The only thing that is not in the photo is a wooden stick or toothpick to turn off the loops. In no case Do not use a metal screwdriver for this.

Before starting work immediately disconnect the loop leading to the battery.

We unscrew the screws around the battery perimeter. Do not be lazy to take a sheet A4 and schematically draw the location of each screw. They have a different length and thread, and during reverse assembly there is a risk to screw something wrong there, thereby pushing the body of the device.

I did this:

For disassembly, you need to unscrew exactly five screws, using Torx T4 screwdriver.

Battery is made extremely careful and try to hold it immediately from all sides. Under your own weight, the battery may break.

The original and the newly acquired "100% original" are no different from each other.

The only thing that rushes into the eye is the absence of a plastic tail in the acquired battery for extracting.

Not critical, survive.

We establish a new battery in place and fix the screws, according to our scheme. Each cog is its place. Try not to make the forces, moderate turning screwdriver is quite enough.

After installing the battery clay do not connect, After all, ahead is the most time-consuming part of the prevention - the replacement of the thermal paste.

Changing the thermal

With the toothpicks, carefully pry the loop located above the cooler. It is glued to the cooler body, so a little effort will be required to tear it off.

Again, with the toothpicks, turn off the miniature culper loop, gently lifting the paw and pulling it out.

Now, with the help of all the same screwdriver TORX T4, we unscrew the three screws holding the cooler and carefully remove it.

Go to the enee of the radiator. Here we are waiting for four screws. Try to remember the effort that had to be attached to their breakdown - when reverse assembling it will need to tighten the screws in the same way.

After you unscrew the 4 screws, do not remove the radiator. It is fixed in another and very problematic part.

Near the cooler, in the corner itself, there is dangerous area - Miniature wiring under which the locking cooler is located.

Carefully move the wire to the side and unscrew the screw. The main thing is to damage anything. Remove the radiator, loosening from the side to the side and freeing the gum-seal.

By unscrewing the screws, make another schematic pattern with their location. It is important! Screws differ from each other.

With a sprinkler with a compressed air or a fringe, get rid of dust formed on the radiator grille. Of course, the same should be performed with a cooler.

Access to the processor crystal is provided!

Yes, what remains of the factory thermal paste could not save MacBook from overheating. It dried and does not provide a proper heat loss.

With the help of a cotton disk and alcohol, we carefully wipe the processor (to the mirror gloss) and the radiator.

We approached the very responsible point - applying the thermal paste. Faced with self-replacement paste, many users face a problem: what optimal amount of thermal paste should be applied?

In order to understand why the thermal passer needs, look at this picture:

The purpose of replacement Thermal paste is to provide smoothing and filling of microcracks On the surface of the processor and radiator. It is not necessary in order to be a layer between them. Therefore, with the approach: "I will put more - it is better to cool" you will make it only worse. The thermalcase will dry very quickly and stop performing their function, losing the necessary physical properties.

Capture paste need the finest layer over the entire surface of the processor. Approximately the number:

Then, with the help of a spatula, grow the thermal paste.

When everything is ready, do not rush to immediately apply the radiator. Sample its location and pay special attention to the rubber seal. It should be in the groove of the motherboard.

Only after that you can set the radiator correctly. Be careful when screwing the corner screw (where there is a dangerous wire). Do not too diligently tighten the screws, making it gradually on each side.

When installing the battery, make sure that you barely noticeable grooves on the plug snapped.

We close the rear metal cover, tighten ten screws around the perimeter.

The assembly is completed!

The effect of replacement thermal paste, battery and several tips

Having done everything that described above, I independently performed the prevention of your favorite MacBook Air. But the question that worried me even before all this is to start - the effectiveness of the event.

I tell.

Thermal Pasta. Prior to replacement, the thermal paste the laptop temperature rarely fell below 95-100 degrees. The cooler worked on a complete even about the refusal of running applications, and the temperature to which the case was heated, did the work impossible.

Print text in the editor - 92-94 degrees, you launch Safari - everything is also. You open Final Cut - the mark of 105 degrees is conquered. The cooler works, but there is no sense from him. He did not cool!

The replacement of the thermal paste and cleaning the cooler has affected magically. He stopped noise! When you start heavy applications, MacBook instantly heats up, the cooler is slowly unhightened and for a minute - drops. And the temperature indicators now look like this:

  • Work in Final Cut Pro X (video editing) - 94-97 degrees
  • Surfing, Music, Messengers, Photoshop - 70-80 degrees
  • Work in text editor - 40-45 degrees.

The temperature in the room is a hot summer day, about 23-25 \u200b\u200bdegrees.

Last indicator I have not seen on my MacBook Air Never. Work in full silence is a real pleasure. Nothing distracts you, does not ugly and does not annoy. Was it worth the game of the candle? Definite!

Battery. 40 minutes is the maximum that I could afford without a socket. After switching on, the new battery was charged by 52%. We are all harsh about calibration, which are connected by constant disputes and speculations.

You need to calibrate the battery. Of course, if you are interested in her adequate further work. What I did after the first inclusion:

  • Immediately connected the power adapter and charged the battery to 100%
  • Discharged up to 10% and re-charged up to 100%
  • Repeated cycle 3 times

Everything that is enough. Do not be surprised if the program istat Menu. It will constantly show different values \u200b\u200bof the battery capacity and its health. It is normal until the moment until the battery is swinging, and this may require about 20-25 discharge / charge cycles.

When operating the battery, try to work in mode 20-100%. Do not bring the battery to full discharge and stop working after Mac is notified of critical charge. Try to shoot MacBook immediately after it charged 100%. So you can not worry about the time of autonomous work and degradation of the battery for several years.

Of course, this is just a recommendation. Modern batteries (and even more so by Apple) are equipped with the necessary protection controllers and provide the maximum life and without excess "dances with a tambourine". Apple technique is designed for comfort, and adhere to or no use tips - to solve you.

During the end of work on this article, my Mac promises to work for another 4 hours 15 minutes. The number of complete charge cycles - 7. Temperature indicator - 46 degrees (I work on my knees). The speed of rotation of the cooler is the minimum 2000 revolutions per minute, but it seems that it does not work at all.

(4.75 out of 5, rated: 4 )

website Detailed guide for those who decided. Apple laptop life cycle is much longer than competitors. It is difficult to argue with this, especially if we are talking about models released 3-4 years ago and before. Maximum aluminum, thoughtful ergonomics, the location of all elements - it is precisely such devices that look at us from the store shelves. And somewhere in parallel dimension plastic ...

With a 13-inch display, de facto younger brother of a 15-inch. It is noteworthy that this time the guys were invited to an operating special guest - a kitten.

The patient himself, in a closed form it is difficult to distinguish from the older brother, and in the open - by the missing nets for speakers.

From above - MacBook Pro. Retina 13, bottom - MacBook Pro 13

Acclavement - the opening of the "hood"

Nothing reminds? Yes, this is the robot number 5 from the movie "Short Circuit"!

Get out SSD.

In IFIXit is surprised by such a solution, because in the same place, a full-fledged 2.5-inch SSD 5-7 mm thick will be quietly placed.

As expected, the "naked" SSD was produced by Koreans.

The flash memory is marked with a total capacity of 256 GB, and the purpose of the remaining parts did not explain, well, well.

Next, there is a Wi-Fi-module with the support of the AirPort protocol.

By the way, in the 15-inch "retinov" MacBook Pro exactly the same module.

Saint-Saints - motherboard.

Red - Dyudarny intel processor Core i5-3210m at 2.5 GHz (integrated Intel HD Graphics 4000 graphics and autonomagon up to 3.1 GHz), orange - rAM Hynix on 8 GB, yellow - chipset Intel. QS77, turquoise - the controller for the Thunderbolt interface.

Orange - just the opposite part of RAM, purple - Cirrus audio controller, the rest - their purpose is unclear.

This looks like a power connector MAGSAFE 2.

Wow! Six battery blocks!

Unlike a 15-inch, in a 13-inch battery, it is much easier to remove.

Broadcom controller, the same as in iPhone 5. Interesting ...

Actually touchpad.

Summa Summarum, an assessment of maintainability - 2 out of 10. Not the best result, however, the elder brother is even greater shame with his one point. IFIXit has complaints about the choice of non-standard SSD, since it is necessary for a separate cable. RAM is presented only 8 GB without the possibility of selecting a version with 16 GB. The display is glued with glass and if when disassembly, do not give Allah, something inside will break, then the entire on-screen part can be sent to the garbage.

Dismantling ifixit is always good in that it can be clearly traced by all the changes that the speakers were broadcast, and the press was noisy. Typing enough and negative about the new MacBook Pro, we decided to plunge into the "iron" debris, and engineers constantly flying to Australia to grab fresh releases first-hand, promptly provided full analysis MacBook Pro 13 "without Touch Bar..

A model was chosen on the tornness without a new-fashioned panel. Her characteristics:

  • 13.3 "Retina display with an IPS matrix that gives a resolution of 2560 x 1600 pixels (227 points / inch) with color depth P3
  • cPU Intel Core I5 Skylake with a frequency of 2.0 GHz (Turbo Boost to 3.1 GHz) with built-in video chip Intel Iris Graphics 540
  • 8 GB of RAM with a frequency of 1866 MHz LPDDR3 (you can install 16 GB)
  • solid State Current Volume of 256 GB, 512 GB or 1 TB
  • two Thunderbolt 3 Ports (USB-C) with Charging Support, DisplayPort, Thunderbolt, USB 3.1 Second Generation
  • coloring "Silver" or "Gray Cosmos"

When inspecting this model, Macboo Pro did not show anything from all sides, except for two ports Thunderbolt 3 on the left and one lonely jack by 3.5 mm on the right. It turns out, the policy that Cupertinov has applied to the iPhone 7, does not work on Maks ... until it works. Interesting, it's good or bad? :)

The A1708 assembly does not affect the sensory panel with emoticons, but here there was a place for the extraordinarily long mechanical button Escape. Of course, together with the rest of the functional.

Maniacs, comparing the dimensions of the already thin and weightless laptops (ultrabooks) from Apple, can enjoy the image above where the new MacBook Pro 13 is located next to the simply MacBook 12. Here, by the way, one designer trend is traced. And how the Through Trekpad rushes into the eyes!

So, it is already enough to admire and it's time to move to the immediate disaster, especially since the first step does not change for 6 years. Yes, Pentalok's screws on the back cover are marked at six years old. The number "6" reflected on the number of mounting elements, the number of which was also reduced from 8 pieces in Macbook 2015 and with 10 pieces of most MacBook Pro.

But sama back cover It was seriously resistance, so it did not cost without using the sucker, established when dismantling the iPhone. You need to pick up a piece of metal, and then pushing it with a mediator to get to the electronics.

That immediately fell into the field of view, so these are protected screws T5, which are solid protection for the battery block.

Two small copper platforms that plus and minus (land) were found at the conflict of the connector.

Then IFIXIT engineers conducted by intuition conducted a more easy procedure for extracting the trackpad, which is now not hiding under the battery. Behind Force Touch, by the way, the very "magic" magnet, holding solely on the screws and spring connector, was fixed.

The following components respond to the trackpad:

  • red - Chip St Microelectronics STM32F103VB ARM Cortex-M3 MCU
  • orange - Broadcom BCM5976C1KUFBG Touch Controller

Easyness, with which experts reached the Trekpad, instantly balanced with an abundant amount of glue on the path to the battery. Old friends, heater and plastic blade, came in handy again.

Lithium polymer blocks left a sticky bath and opened the first truly important fact - by 27% reduced battery capacity. Not even peering in the characteristics, where 4781 mAh are pricked, the deprivation becomes obvious, because the MacBook Pro 13 "panels are installed instead of six.

SSD in "camouflage" instantly transferred attention. After removing the protective ribbon, the PCI-E standard fee safely unfolded, confirming the second fact - his own replaceable solid-state drives, just, we remind you that any SSD cannot be installed, it will still have to fork.

A more meticulous inspection of the repository revealed the manufacturer and other components. The drive produced SanDisk, now property Western Digital.; About the rest of the details - below:

  • red - SanDisk SDRQKBDC4 064G Flash Memory 64 GB (4 pcs.)
  • orange - Apple 338S00227 Controller
  • yellow - Texas Instruments 58879D Mosfet
  • green - F4432ACE-GD-F type MICRON 512 MB DDR2 RAM
  • blue - Blue Apple 338S00199 SSD Controller

Removing the speaker was traditionally possible to implement one left, because it was protected by screwed gaskets to repay vibrations that would certainly produce new speakers with an improved "boom effect".

Now nothing bothered the liberation of the motherboard, where it turned out that the "improved architecture" was actually a change in the positions of the radiator screws on the back wall.


  • red - SKHYNIX H9CCNNNNBJTML
  • orange - Texas Instruments TPS51980 BUCK Converter for Memory Management
  • yellow - Universal Scientific Industrial 339S025 Wi-Fi Module
  • green - Intel DSL6510 Thunderbolt 3 Controller
  • blue - Texas Instruments 58873D Synchronous Buck Nexfet Power Block Mosfet Pair
  • blue - Broadcom BCM15700A2 Camera Processor
  • purple - Micron 512 MB DDR3L SDRAM

On the other side:

  • SKHYNIX H9CCNNNNBJTML LPDDR3 HIGH-SPEED SYNCHRONOUS DRAM
  • Texas Instruments SN650839 66Al7XWGI (AS SEEN IN THE 2016 RETINA MACBOOK)
  • 2x Texas Instruments CD3215B03 66AQ8YW G1
  • WINBOND SPIFLASH 64 MB Serial Flash Memory
  • TEXAS INSTRUMENTS TM4EA231 H6ZXRI SYSTEM MANAGEMENT CONTROLLER
  • Cirrus Logic CS42L63A Audio Codec
  • INTERSIL 95828 HRTZ X630MRR

Now about the full survivor - Jack 3.5 mm for headphones, but as a single module to which 2 microphones are attached, pulling down to the fan.

Universal surprise, Apple suffered fans from the 2012 model. Local carlsons are very very quiet due to the asymmetric landing of the blades.

Just below the screen, the "iron" was discovered, responsible for the life of a huge number of Retina-pixels:

  • B1332BDPA 090BX 1605
  • National Semiconductor 67A800U 49B1-04
  • TEXAS INSTRUMENTS 65CLKEI TPS65157
  • NXP LPC812 ARM Cortex M0 + 32-Bit MCU
  • Texas Instruments TPS65158 High Resolution LCD Bias Ic For TV

With special love secured Apple protection for the loops so that MacBook does not crumble in half. The same defense plays the role of antenna. What about the work of the loop: the spring mechanism twists the cable when the display is closed, and spins when opening. That is why the lid began to close easier.

The loops are a demonstration of injection molding technology: they are thin, light and durable.

And here is the second generation of the keyboard "butterfly" in all its glory. Of the differences, you can select higher caps that search for keys is more comfortable, and the dome mechanism responsible for improved stability compared to the usual MacBook.

ifixit deservedly awarded the new MacBook Pro 13 "without Touch Bar 2 out of 10 points on the maintainability scale, glanced only easily disconnecting the trackpad. Most of all the difficulties caused the amount of glue around the battery, Pentalobovsky screws soldered to the motherboard RAM and non-standard type solid-state drives PCIE. In general, tuning new "prosbas" is problematic, expensive and not safely.

If you first start disassembling a laptop, we recommend paying attention to the article ". This article has recommendations that will help to avoid typical mistakes In the process of disassembly.

Writing from dust MacBook A1502

If the laptop overheats during operation and turns off sharply - it is soon due to overheating of the cooling system. The reason for this is the accumulation of dust on the radiator. If you do not clean the cooling system on time, it will drive the motherboard breakdown in the laptop. This problem can be resolved independently, repeating all the steps shown in the video below. Information provided in our video instructions allows you to clean the laptop from dust yourself at home. Required tools For repair, you can buy at the end of the page.

Installing SSD in MacBook A1502 Laptop How to Change Hard Drive

Video instructions on which you can independently replace HDD on SSD in laptop MacBook. A1502.. Also you will learn how to change the faulty hDD on a new HDD. Classic magnetic discs (HDD) more fragile and much slower than modern SSD drives. Decisibly replacing the HDD on SSD will lead to a laptop speed at times. In our video below, shown step-by-step instruction How to install an SSD in a laptop.

Reverse Assembly MacBook A1502

After the disassembly and repair is completed, this video will help you to assemble a laptop to its original state.