How to make a fan more powerful on a computer. Cooling your pc or how to deal with overheating of your computer. Reasons for CPU overheating

The most power-hungry in a computer is the processor and the removal of the released thermal energy is an urgent task, especially when the ambient temperature is high. Not only the stability and durability of its operation depends on the heating temperature of the processor, but the speed, which processor manufacturers usually keep silent about.

In the overwhelming majority of computers, the processor cooling system is designed with disregard for the elementary laws of physics. The system cooler operates in a short-circuit mode, since there is no screen preventing the cooler from sucking hot air coming out of the processor heatsink. As a result, the efficiency of the processor cooling system does not exceed 50%. In addition, cooling is performed with air heated by other components and assemblies located in the system unit.

Sometimes an additional cooler is installed in the system unit on the back wall, but this is not the best solution... An additional cooler works to push air out of system unit into the environment as well as the cooler of the power supply. As a result, the efficiency of both coolers is much lower if they worked separately - one sucked air into the system unit, and the other pushed it out. As a result, additional electricity is consumed and, what is most unpleasant, additional acoustic noise appears.

The proposed design of the processor cooling system is free from the above disadvantages, is easy to implement and provides high efficiency of cooling the processor and, as a result, other components of the motherboard. The idea is not new and simple, the air for cooling the processor heatsink is taken from outside the system unit, that is, from the room.

I decided to improve the cooling system of the processor of my computer when I came across a construct from the cooling system of a branded, obsolete system unit.

It remains to fix this part in the system unit and connect it to the processor cooler. Since the length of the branch pipe was insufficient, it had to be extended with a polyethylene tape twisted into a tube. The tube diameter was chosen taking into account the tight fit on the CPU cooler case. To prevent the tape from developing, it is fixed with a metal bracket with a stapler.

The system is fixed with the help of self-made two corners with self-tapping screws to the back wall of the system unit. Exact positioning relative to the center of the cooler is achieved due to the lengths of the sides of the corners.

Such simple construction made it possible to practically exclude the flow of hot air from the system unit to the processor cooling system.

There was already a ready-made hole in the lid of my system unit, which simplified the work. But making a hole on your own is not difficult, you need to project the center point of the cooler onto the side cover, draw a circle with a compass, slightly less than the diameter of the tube. Drill with a drill with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm with a pitch of 3.5 mm along the entire length of the hole circumference. The drilling points must first be marked with a core. Then re-drill the drilled holes with a 4 mm drill. Cut the edges of the hole obtained with a round file. All that remains is to install a decorative grille, although it is not required.

A plastic beverage bottle can be used as an air duct. If there is no suitable diameter, then you can take a larger one, cut along and sew with threads. High tightness is not required here. You can also fix the tube with small screws directly to the cooler case. The main thing is to provide air supply to the processor cooling system from the outside.

Temperature measurements showed a high efficiency of the made cooling system for the Pentium 2.8 GHz processor. At 10% CPU load, at an ambient temperature of 20 ° C, the processor temperature did not exceed 30 ° C, the heatsink was cold to the touch. At the same time, the cooler effectively cooled the radiator at the lowest speed.

Refueling the system is simple. It can be realized in two ways. The first took about two minutes, including de-aerating the system. The second one had to spend all 15 minutes. Refueling in the second way has already passed in 5 minutes, apparently the necessary experience has been gained.

The first refueling method is as follows:

We open the taps and lower the pump and the second tap into the basin so that the taps are covered with water. All other parts of the CBO should be lower in level.

We place the second faucet above all the elements of the CBO. We turn on the pump to the network and see how all the air leaves the system through it. In the end, a small fountain begins to beat - it's time to close the second tap.

The second tap is closed. We put it aside and begin to rotate the radiator to remove air from it, after which we close the faucet on the pump. This filling method is demanding on the volume of water, and the distillate costs money.

Therefore, there is a second way:

For the second filling method, we need a fourth fitting, which is screwed to any of the taps, but better to the one on the pump. Moreover, the second faucet should not be higher in level than the entire "structure" on the first faucet. "Construction" is a fitting with a piece of hose put on it and a funnel at the end. Like this! The only difficulty is holding the funnel, the second tap and the bottle and distillate. This requires one more person. Further, refueling continues as in the first method.

A fan should also be installed (possibly through a shroud) and the system is ready. If you decide to hang the radiator from the back of the case, then before refueling, you should push the hoses through one of the places under the plug. The pump and taps are perfectly located inside the system unit.

So, the Gnome project is ready. It took one day to create it. In the creation, only publicly available components were used, except for the water block, which has not yet gone on sale. As for the new water block from ProModz, its use is due to the fact that it was at hand and, of course, the fact that it was able to decorate our project with its appearance.

The cost of the project most of all depends on the price of the water block. It is quite possible to keep within $ 70 (at a water block price of $ 22). This is a little more than it was planned at the beginning of the article, but this amount can be reduced by losing convenience.

For those who still cannot think of a CBO without using an expansion tank, we present a budget version of a tank that costs less than 100 rubles (30 minutes of work). Those. costs will decrease by about $ 5 (item "taps and fittings"). The final cost of the CBO will be $ 65, but it will no longer be "Gnome".

We make an expansion tank

For the expansion tank, we need two fittings with nuts, 4 rubber bands and a container for storing food. You should take a container with a tight lid and thick walls (1 mm), so the tank will be more reliable. In our case, the dimensions of the tank were 9 x 11 x 11cm. It is quite compact, you can place it, for example, in the empty basket for 3.5-inch devices.

After marking the holes, cut them out. Holes can be drilled, but this is for the most patient.

The hole should be cut slightly less than necessary and as straight as possible. Then the edges need to be trimmed with a soldering iron and brought to the desired diameter.

After the holes are ready, we begin to screw in the fittings. To ensure tightness, use rubber rings on both sides.

The expansion tank is ready.

It is quite difficult to make a non-leaking, reliable tank the first time without using a sealant or transparent silicone glue. However, only such a procedure will allow you to save good view constructions. If this can be said in the case of a budget option.

Project "Gnome" can allow the user not to postpone the creation of an air defense system for the future and to take full advantage of its advantages. This project will allow you to either forget about the problem of good CPU cooling, or it will give you time to save money and expand the number of cooling points in the future. You can also do, for example, making a beautiful plexiglass expansion tank, which, as a rule, does not work the first time.

Do not deny yourself water cooling. The Gnome project will bring you the benefits of water cooling - silence and high efficiency, at a minimum cost.

Last year I wrote a "fundamental" article about cooling systems - the work came out in two large parts (,), but I tried to tell you about everything from radiators to liquid nitrogen. Quite recently I was ripe for another "feat", namely the installation of a water cooling system.

If you are interested in a detailed illustrated guide for assembling / installing such a system (using the example of a productive config), then welcome under cat. Traffic!

Radiators and coolers - it's not even so interesting to write about this, because all this has long been in any computer and you will not surprise anyone with this. Liquid nitrogen and all sorts of phase transition systems are another extreme, the chances of meeting with which in the economy of an ordinary person are almost zero. But "dropsy" ... in terms of computer cooling, this is like a golden mean - unusual, but affordable; almost no noise, but at the same time, anything can cool. For the sake of fairness, it is more correct to call SVO (water cooling system) LSS (liquid cooling system), because, in fact, anything can be poured inside. But, looking ahead, I used ordinary water, so I will use the term SVO more.

Quite recently, I wrote in sufficient detail about assembling a new system unit. The resulting stand looked like this:

A thoughtful study of the list suggests that the heat dissipation of some devices is not just high, but VERY high. And if you connect everything as it is, then inside even the most spacious case it will be at least hot; but as practice shows, it will also be very noisy.

Let me remind you that the case in which the computer is going is, albeit not very practical (although every time I am convinced of the opposite), but very presentable Thermaltake Level 10- it has disadvantages, but for one only appearance he can be forgiven a lot.

At this stage, the motherboard was installed in the case, the video card was installed in it - preliminarily in the uppermost PCI slot.

Installing a radiator / pump / reservoir

One of the most interesting stages of work, which took us the most time (if we had taken the easy path right away, we would have done it in half an hour, but first we tried all the difficult options, due to which all the work took a total of 2 days (of course, far from complete).

The water cooling system is very similar to that used in cars, just a little more - there is also a radiator (most often more than one), a cooler, a coolant, etc. But the car has one advantage - a solid oncoming flow of cold air, which plays a key role in cooling the system while driving.

In the case of a computer, the heat has to be removed by the air that is in the room. Accordingly, the larger the heatsink and the number of coolers, the better. And since you want a minimum of noise, effective cooling will be achieved mainly due to the surface of the radiator.

And the essence of the problem was as follows. In Skype, we preliminarily agreed on the opinion “we will hang the radiator on the back of 2-3 sections - it will be more than enough!”, But as soon as we looked at the case, it turned out that everything is not so simple. Firstly, there really was not enough space for a three-section radiator (if you attach the radiator to the hole where the blown case cooler is supposed to be installed), and secondly, even if it was enough, it would not work to open the case itself - it would interfere The "door" of the system compartment :)

In general, we counted at least four options for installing a heatsink in a Thermaltake Level 10 case - all of them are possible, each would take a different amount of time and each would have its own pros and cons. I'll start with those that we considered, but which did not suit us:

1. Installation of the radiator on the rear (from the user) side, that is, on a removable door.
Pros:
+ Possibility of horizontal and vertical installation of any radiator, even for 3-4 coolers
+ The dimensions of the case would not have increased much

Minuses:
- I would have to drill 4 to 6-8 holes in the door
- Removing the door would be very inconvenient
- A horizontal arrangement would require a radiator with a non-standard arrangement of the liquid inlet hole
- If positioned vertically, the hoses would be very long and with a lot of bend
- The case will stand to my left (on the windowsill), and I don't need warm air from the coolers in my face :)

2. Installing the radiator from above, on the "casing" of the power supply compartment. The pros and cons are identical

3. Installing a two-piece radiator inside the system compartment

Pros:
+ Simplicity of solution
+ Externally there would be no changes
+ The system compartment door would open without problems

Minuses:
- Only a 2-section radiator would do (this is not enough for the config hardware)
- In that case, there would be no way to get cold air, and I didn't want to drive warm air back and forth.
- There would be difficulties in the "placement" of the pump and reservoir
- Even if ultra-thin coolers were used, all SATA connectors would overlap (if they were displayed to the user, and not sideways, then this problem would not exist)

In general, we tried all these options to one degree or another - we spent a lot of time looking for the necessary components, fitting them, etc.

The very last option turned out to be a rather unusual solution - it may not be the most beautiful at first glance, but really practical. This is the installation of a radiator on the rear side of the case through a special adjustable adapter with a "scissor" mechanism.

Pros:
+ No drilling required
+ Ability to hang ANY radiator
+ Excellent breathability
+ Access to the motherboard connectors was not blocked
+ Minimum hose lengths, minimum bends
+ The design is removable and transportable

Minuses:
- Not the most presentable appearance :)
- Opening the door of the system compartment is now not so easy
- Sufficiently expensive adapter

Why did we come to this option last? Because during the search for the previous three options, they accidentally found an adapter that everyone forgot about, but in the online store it was not) Looking at the only (last) copy of the mounting frame Koolance Radiator Mounting Bracket, I thought, "And what will not come up with!". The bottom line is the following - 4 "cone nails" are inserted into the holes for attaching to the body of the rear blowing cooler, on which a special frame is hung.

The design of this frame is such that its length can be changed by twisting the clamps, and it is removed by mixing two parts of its body (so that the holes are unclenched and it can be removed from the "nails") - so I bent it!) It is much easier to understand everything from the photo.

The frame is metal and very durable - I was convinced of this when we hung up a 3-section (for 3 coolers) radiator for a test. Nothing dangles or sways, everything hangs tightly, but in the "unclenched" case, the door opened for itself - this option completely suited me!

There were a huge number of radiators to choose from - black, white, red ... In this matter, I was most surprised by the 4-section TFC Monsta capable of dissipating up to 2600W of heat (this is probably an SLI of four 480s)! But we people are much simpler, so we decided to stop at the radiator that we tried on - Swiftech MCR320-DRIVE... Its advantage is that it combines three components at once - a radiator (MCR320 QP Radiator for three 120mm coolers), a fluid reservoir and a pump high pressure (MCP350 Pump, full analogue of the "usual" pump Laing DDC). In fact, with such a piece of iron for the NWO, you only need to buy water blocks, hoses and other little things that we already had. The pump operates from 12V (8 to 13.2), making a noise of 24 ~ 26 dBA. The maximum generated pressure is 1.5 bar, which is approximately 1.5 atmphospheres.

There were three contender coolers for the radiator - Noctua, Be quiet and Scythe... As a result, we settled on Indonesian (with Japanese roots) Scythe Gentle Typhoon(120mm, 1450 rpm, 21 dBA) - these turntables have been in great demand among many users for several days. They are very quiet, and the quality of bearing balancing is simply surprising - the cooler will spin unnaturally for a long time even from the lightest touch. The service life is 100,000 hours at 30 ° C (or 60,000 hours at 60 ° C), which is enough for the obsolescence of this system unit.

A review of these "typhoons" was at the FTsentr - I advise you to read it. Protective grilles were placed on top of the coolers to prevent the child from stuffing something vital into the fans.

Trying on the resulting structure for the system unit - it looks very unusual) But look how convenient it is - to get inside the case (or remove the cooling system), you just need to press one "button" and the whole structure is, in fact, already disconnected. We shrink the mounting frame and have full access to the entrails - there is more than roomy, because we did not pile anything there. Maybe I didn’t describe the most convenient option, but ... considering that after assembling the computer, you practically won't have to climb inside, and good cooling is much more important, then I think our decision is correct.

The assembled structure weighs 2.25 kilograms, and with fluid and fittings, probably all 3 - running ahead, even such a weight was within the power of the Koolance frame, for which she respects and respects :)

Home stretch

The only thing left to do was to install all the components, "tie it with water" and test the resulting computer. It all started with the installation of fittings - such beautiful pieces of iron (in the form of "Christmas trees"), which are installed through special gaskets (and sometimes, when the thread of the fitting is very long, through special spacers) into the corresponding hole of the water block or tank - for tightening we used a small adjustable wrench , but here it is also important not to overdo it.

In addition to fittings, special plugs were installed in two holes of the video card water block:

After that, we thought out the route along which the water would go. The rule is simple - from less heated to more. Accordingly, the "outlet" of the radiator is connected first to the water block of the motherboard, from it to the processor, then to the video card, and only then back to the entrance to the radiator, to cool down. Since water is one for all, the temperature of all components as a result will be approximately the same - it is from these considerations that multi-circuit systems are made and it is for this reason that it makes no sense to connect all sorts to one circuit. hard drives, RAM, etc.

The role of the hose went to the red Feser Tube(PVC, working temperature from -30 to + 70 ° C, burst pressure 10MPa), for which a special predatory tool was used.

Cutting the hose straight may not be that difficult, but very important! Almost all hoses were equipped with special springs against bends and kinks in the hose (the minimum radius of the hose loop becomes ~ 3.5cm).

On each hose (on both sides) in the area of ​​the fitting, you need to install a "clamp" - we used beautiful Koolance Hose Clamp... They are installed using ordinary pliers (with brute male force), so you need to act carefully so as not to accidentally touch anything.

It's time to work on connecting the "inner world" with the "outside". In order to be able to remove the radiator-reservoir-pump (for example, to open the case or for transportation), we put on the tubes the so-called “quick-release valves” (quick-release valves), the principle of which is outrageously simple.

When we turn the connection (like with BNC connectors), the hole in the tube closes and opens, so that the dropsy can be disassembled in less than a minute, without any puddles or other consequences. A couple more expensive but great looking pieces of iron:

Expenses

5110 - EK FB RE3 Nickel Waterblock for Motherboard
3660 - EK-FC480 GTX Nickel + Plexi waterblock for graphics card
1065 - EK-FC480 GTX Backplate Nickel for graphics card
2999 - Enzotech Stealth Waterblock per processor
9430 - Pump / radiator / reservoir Swiftech MCR320-DRIVE
2610 - Two Quick Release Coupling Valves
4000 - Koolance Radiator Mounting Bracket Adapter
1325 - Three Scythe Gentle Typhoon coolers (120mm) for radiator
290 - Four EK-10mm High Flow Fitting
430 - Arctic-Cooling-MX-3 Thermal Paste
400 - Nine Koolance Hose Clamp
365 - Nanoxia HyperZero Liquid
355 - Hose Feser Tube

Such a high price in this case is due to the fact that fullcover-water blocks were used for VERY hot glands, all the heat from which must be dissipated with an appropriate radiator. For more simple systems such solutions are simply not needed, you can also do without decorative overlays and any quick-release valves - in such cases, you can easily keep within half the cost. The price of an average "dropsy" is 12-15 thousand rubles, which is 4-5 times higher than the cost of a really good processor cooler.

Switching on and working

After all the components of the system were connected, it was time for a "leak test" (leak test) - coolant was poured into the radiator (red Nanoxia HyperZero double distilled water, with anti-corrosion and antibiological additives) - about 500 ml

The guy in Habramayk fills the radiator)

Because it cannot be ruled out that something was not connected to the computer components correctly, it was decided to separately check the operation of the water cooling system itself. To do this, all the wires (from the coolers and from the pump) were connected, and a paper clip was inserted into the 24-pin connector of the power supply unit - for "idle". Just in case, we put napkins below so that the slightest leak would be easier to detect.

Pressing a button and ... everything is as planned) Honestly, before that I had to see dropsy (in addition to the Internet) only at various exhibitions and competitions, where it was very noisy; so I subconsciously prepared for the "murmur of the brook", but the noise level pleasantly surprised - for the most part, only the operation of the pump was audible. Initially, there were “hissing” sounds - due to air bubbles inside the circuit (they could be seen in some places of the hoses). To solve this problem, the stopper of the radiator tank was opened - the air gradually left the circulation of the flow and the system began to work even quieter. After topping up the liquid, the plug was closed and the computer worked for another 10 minutes. Noise from the cooler of the power supply unit and from three on the radiator was not heard at all, although their air flows made themselves felt.

After making sure that the system is fully operational, we decided to finally assemble test bench... It took no more than a minute to connect the wires - they were looking for a monitor and a wire to connect it much longer. everyone worked on laptops;) The phrase “Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key "became a balm for the soul - we inserted one of the" working "SSD-drives (with Windows 7 on board) - it's good that the new computer took this option. For complete happiness, we just updated the drivers for the chipset and installed the drivers for the video card.

Launching the diagnostic monster Everest, where on one of the tabs we find the readings of the temperature sensors: 30 ° C was valid for all system components - CPU, GPU and motherboard - well, very nice numbers. The equality of numbers has led to the assumption that cooling in idle mode is limited to room temperature, because there can be no temperature lower than that in an ordinary dropsy. In any case, it is much more interesting to see what the situation will be under load.

15 minutes " office work"And the temperature of the video card has risen to 35 ° C.

We start by checking the CPU, for which we use the program OCCT 3.1.0- enough later long time in 100% load mode, the maximum processor temperature was 38 ° C, and the core temperature was 49-55 ° C, respectively. The motherboard temperature was 31 ° C, the northbridge temperature was 38 ° C, and the southbridge temperature was 39 ° C. By the way, it is very noteworthy that all four processor cores had practically the same temperature - apparently, this is the merit of the water block, which removes heat evenly from the entire surface of the processor cover. 50+ degrees for 4-core Intel Core i7-930 with a TDP of 130W - even one stock air cooler is barely capable of such a result. And if it is capable, then the noise from its work is unlikely to be liked by anyone (the Internet says about the temperature this processor at 65-70 degrees with the Cooler Master V10 cooler - the one with the Peltier element).

The video card out of habit was warmed up by the program FurMark 1.8.2(in the common people "donut") - it was unlikely that in a hurry it was possible to come up with something more resource-intensive and informative.

In addition to Everest, the program was also installed EVGA Precision 2.0... At the maximum available resolution (with maximum anti-aliasing), a stress test was launched with temperature logging - after 3 minutes the temperature of the video card settled at around 52 degrees! 52 degrees in load for the top (on this moment) NVIDIA graphics cards The Fermi GTX 480 isn't just great, it's great!)

For comparison, the temperature of a video card under load with a standard cooler can reach 100 degrees, and with a good non-reference one - up to 70-80.

In general, the temperature regime is in perfect order - under load, coolers blow out almost cold air from the radiator, while the radiator itself is barely warm. I will not talk about the overclocking potential in this article, I will only say that it is there. But something completely different is much more pleasant - the system works almost silently!

The end

You can talk for a long time about the result, but I liked it, as well as all those who have already seen it. Whatever one may say, but in the Thermaltake Level 10 case, I managed to assemble a more than productive config, which is still long time will be relevant. Moreover, a full-fledged water cooling system "got up" almost without problems, which, in addition to good cooling of the filling, gives +5 to the appearance. Speaking about the temperature regime, we can safely speak of a solid potential for overclocking - now, even under load, the cooling system works far from its limit.

I forgot to write about another important plus - interesting. Perhaps this is the most interesting thing that I had to do with pieces of iron - not a single computer assembly brought so much pleasure! It's one thing when you collect ordinary "soulless" compics, it is quite another thing when you understand all the responsibility and approach the matter with all your heart. Such work takes far more than 5 minutes - all this time you feel like a child playing an adult construction set. And also an engineer-technologist-constructor-plumber-designer, but just a geek ... in general, the interest is greatly increased!

Good luck and frosty freshness!

After buying my first computer, for some reason I wanted to work on it at night. Maybe because no one bothers, maybe because they think differently at night, I don't know. However, there was a desire and in order to realize it, a computer with a minimum noise level was needed. This idea remained an idea, if not for the boss, who was also fond of upgrading and reducing the noise from his computer. The result was silent computer a photo of which can be seen at the end of the article.

There are two types of noise: vibration and acoustic (from air flows). There are several sources of noise: case fans, processor cooling system, video card cooling system, motherboard cooling system (and this happens), reading devices optical discs and .

There are two options reduce computer noise: reduce the number of noise sources and reduce the noise level of the sources themselves. The greatest effect is obtained when using two options. There is nothing you can do about optical disc readers, unless you install them at all. (How, then, to install operating system you can read it from a flash drive).

Consider noise reduction options for the main components of the computer.

Test configuration:

• : Intel Core2Duo E8500
• : Radeon HD3870
• : AEROCOOL AeroEngine Plus Black

2. Fans and case

In the basic configuration, the case had 3 fans with diameters: 180, 140 and 120 mm. 180 mm on the side wall - blow-in, 140 - in front - blow-in and 120 - back-out.

There was also a turbine in front of the 140 mm fan, which rotated from the air flow created by the fan. Since the function of the turbine was purely decorative, it was immediately removed.

For rational cooling of the case, it is necessary that cold air flows inside, and hot air is thrown out. It is known from the school curriculum that cold air sinks and hot air rises. Based on this, it is recommended to put the lower fans on the blow-in, and the upper ones on the blow-out. Then the cold air from below enters the housing, heats up, cooling, rises and is thrown out by the upper fans.

Since I had two exhaust fans: one for the case and the other on, it was decided to turn off the case and look at. It is convenient to monitor the system using the AIDA64 program (formerly called Everest). Almost nothing changed and the fan left my case.

Further, it is worth paying special attention to the air flow inside the case in order to reduce resistance and improve system cooling. It is necessary to decide on all the openings of the case and understand what kind of air enters or exits through them. In this case, like most, the holes were everywhere, except for the bottom and top.

Adequate cooling was required to eliminate the remaining noise sources 180 mm and 140 mm. To do this, I made the side covers of the case airtight, removing 180 mm and inserting acrylic inserts there instead of plastic grilles.

It turned out beautifully and efficiently. After these improvements, cold air could enter the case through the front panel using 140 mm and through the holes on the rear surface of the case (where 120 mm for blowing was removed).

With such a cooling system, it turned out that the power supply, which should draw warm air from the entire case, draws out the air entering through back panel... The decision was made to cover the rear vents.

Now the cold air only came in through 140 mm on the front panel. This fan was the loudest as it was closest to me. I tried to disable it. The temperature of the HDD and. Everything was normal and 140 mm left the hull.

The system has become much quieter. There are only 3 fans left: in the power supply, in the cooling system of the video card and in the cooling system. Also, for better cooling, the plates covering the expansion slots were removed, so that cold air would enter through the lower front and rear openings and cool the HDD and the video card. At this point, my executions over the corps stopped.

Output... It is necessary to make sure that cold air enters the body from below, and warm air is thrown out from above. The perforations on the bottom and top of the case are ideal. I didn't do it myself, as it greatly ruined the appearance. Excess openings that interfere with or interfere with the passage of air in the housing must be closed (openings in the side covers). I also think that fans less than 120 mm in a quiet, especially in a silent computer should not be. A fan of 92 mm and 80 mm, in order to create the same air flow as 120 mm, requires a higher rotational speed and, as a result, higher noise. Therefore, if you have such fans, try replacing them with 120 mm. Regarding the company, pay attention to Noctua fans. They are all made using a fluid dynamic bearing. Those. there is practically no friction, which has a positive effect on durability, reliability and noise performance. Also, some models contain adapters with soldered resistors in the kit to reduce the speed.

As you can see in the picture above, the kit can also include silicone holders for the fan (used to prevent the transmission of vibrations from the fan to the case).

3. Video card

The next element that craved my attention was. This series of cards differs in that without warming up on full reel and accordingly - makes a decent noise. This is perfectly audible until the operating system is loaded.

I tested the construction with WarCraft 3. The temperature reached 95 degrees, but the game ran smoothly. The idle temperature did not rise above 50 degrees Celsius. It's already good, but if you play, you will have to set 120 mm for airflow.

After a thorough search, an add-on of the same company was found, which was installed on reverse side graphics chip. Another 30 minutes and the temperature dropped by almost 5 degrees. This completes the process of modernizing the cooling of the video adapter.

Output... If possible, get by with the built-in graphics. If the first option is not suitable, pay attention to video cards with passive cooling.

If you want to play serious games then choose a cooling system for it.

The latest version of the DeepCool Dracula cooler can even cope with the Radeon HD 7970, but with two 120mm fans installed. With such capacities, you can forget about passive cooling, but this system cooling is made so that you would not hear the video card in the system.

4. Motherboard

In most cases motherboards produced with passive cooling, but there are exceptions.

He has already expressed his attitude towards fans less than 120 mm in diameter. This board bribes with only a 5-year warranty. In any case, you should choose with a passive cooling system. Fewer moving parts, higher product reliability.

My computer was built on the basis of ASUS P5Q

Everything was fine, but when feeling the radiator on the south bridge (the leftmost yellow small one) was noticed (subjectively about 70 °). Naturally, the question of replacing the cooling system with Thermalright Chipset Heatsink HR-05 SLI / IFX.

Everything was great, but during installation I screwed on the radiator tightly and damaged the board. The situation was successfully resolved by the choice of the mother ASUS boards P5Q Pro with a more advanced chipset cooling system).

From the P5Q to the P5Q Pro, only the radiator has migrated to the mosfets (processor batteries) at the very top of the motherboard.

The system took the following form

After replacement, nothing else in motherboard did not upgrade.

The whole story began with the modernization of the system. I wanted to change AMD processor Athlon XP on Athlon 64.

And from this it followed that the change of the processor would not have been enough. So I had to change

• Processor: AMD Athlon 64 3000+ Socket 754 (NewCasle)
• Motherboard: ASUS K8N-E Deluxe
• Memory: Two modules of 256 Mb PC-3200
• Video: Albatron GeForce 4 Ti4800SE 128Mb AGP8x
• HDD: WD SATA 80GB 7200rpm (8Mb buffer), Seagate Barracuda ATA-100 40GB 7200rpm (2Mb buffer)
• CD-ROM ASUS 52X
• CD-RW NEC 48x / 24X / 48x
• FDD Mitsumi
• Case with 420w power supply
• Cooling: Titan 4800rpm cooler + 4 additional fans

But I ask you to notice this configuration, which turned out after the completion of the upgrade, but so far the system had a 300W power supply, and there were no additional fans, as well as a powerful sound system, which is not indicated in this list, but about it at the end of this article.
In the meantime, we begin to move a little in front. The first impression of the purchased hardware overshadowed all the problems of the system, but soon I had to specifically think about them.

Let's move on to the first issue, the noise issue. I probably haven't told you yet that when the hardware was changed, the system unit was not replaced with a new one, which led to an increase in noise when the cooler was operating at full rotational speed. In fact, the problem was not in the system unit, but in the cooler itself, apparently, the manufacturer did not take into account its aerodynamic shortcomings, in this regard, it seemed that my system unit was about to leave (in the literal sense, the rattling was simply unbearable).
But one misfortune does not happen without the other, and it so happened that while playing DooM3 in my power supply, something burned out, and he flatly refused to turn on the system. It was decided to buy a Thermaltake Dual Fan 420W power supply. its weight was almost two and a half kilograms, and the fan speed control system could not increase the noise of the computer. And the presence of a second fan drawing hot air from the system unit helped a lot when drawing hot air from the processor. After installing the power supply, it turned out that my system engineer no longer wanted to buzz and jump, or rather, the sound of the cooler began to merge with the sound of the fans of the power supply. And, consequently, the first problem after that completely disappeared.
But there were still two problems left, namely the cooling problem and the problem good sound... Well, let's start with the cooling problem. It was decided to buy three 80x80mm fans and install them in the system unit. Moreover, there were no problems with two fans, but with the third there was a small problem, namely, its installation in a non-standard place, in one of the side panels of the system unit.

The location for this fan was chosen directly opposite the PCI slots. To install this fan, it was decided to drill 4 holes in the lid of the system unit, the distance between which was about 80mm, i.e. the intended purpose of these holes was to secure the fan. But it was also necessary to think about air intake, and, therefore, it was necessary to drill holes under the working part of the fan, for this 3 circles were drawn and holes were drilled along them, the distance between which was approximately 3-5mm. The result is the following drawing:

At the same time, the processor temperature did not exceed 55 degrees. The result is approximately the following air flow pattern:

From this diagram, it can be seen that, as it should be from below, cold air enters the system unit (thanks to two fans working for blowing), rising to the top, the air heats up and is thrown out (thanks to the fans of the power supply and the system unit, which work as blowing out). This is how the second problem was solved cheaply and without straining too much.
The third problem is probably the most important. This is a 6-channel sound system setup without a subwoofer. From the beginning, the houses were found old rather large speakers (if we assume that they were connected to a computer). Then I decided to connect these speakers to my computer. But then a problem arose, namely the lack of a sound amplifier in them. The solution to this problem came somehow by itself, you just had to buy inexpensive speakers in the price range of about 200-300 rubles. The choice fell on the Genius SP-Q06. After the purchase, the second speaker was immediately disassembled upon arriving home, and a wire from the old headphones was soldered to its speaker, which was connected (in my case using the most ordinary twisting) to the wires going to the large speakers.

After turning on this design, it turned out that the sound of large speakers replaces the subwoofer. Further, to create a surround sound effect, the speakers were placed in different parts of the room (and the large ones were completely hidden in the most secluded places, since they had an obscene appearance).

Well, as it turned out, all my efforts were not in vain. If earlier my games did not bother me much, now during the game from a strong and sharp sound goosebumps involuntarily began to run through my body.
Thus, my needs for the system were satisfied, and it became much more pleasant to sit at the computer. I hope that the materials in this article will help you in the implementation of your ideas.